Three Black Girlz on Safari: Elephants at the Watering Hole, I

With 30,000 elephants in Hwange National Park, it wasn’t whether we would see any, but when and how many.

As the sun came down on our first game drive, cold and blackness overtook us immediately. Dixon pulled out his infrared flashlight to make it easier to spot the animals that had become invisible to us.

We were following the flashlight as it darted from side to side, and complaining, through chattering teeth about how cold it had become when we saw what looked like small beads floating on dusty brown mounds directly ahead. Dixon stopped abruptly. I was shocked when the jeep’s headlights illuminated two elephants — they seemed to have just come out of nowhere. Dixon shone the flashlight at them but before they backed away, one shook its head as if were annoyed at being disturbed.

I was a little unnerved at how close we came. It was our first day and our first time being that close and it brought home the fact that in this world, we were the intruders.

Elephants at the Watering Hole
Elephants at sunset

After that first night, we’d see elephants every time we went on a drive. And as days passed, we got better at spotting them even when they appeared to be hiding among the grass or seemed to blend into the foliage. Since it was difficult to see them at night, I’m absolutely certain that we missed many more than we saw.

Despite their size — African elephants can weigh between 5,000 and 14,000 pounds and are about 8 feet tall — they’re gentle animals. A herd could be approaching and you wouldn’t hear their footsteps. It surprised me to discover that.

They’re also very playful. It’s a treat watching them with their babies, or playing with others in the herd. It was always fun watching them at the watering hole.

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Three Black Girlz on Safari in Zimbabwe: Stalking Big Cats

On the afternoon of our second day, we raced to the spot where Godfrey, our guide, had heard that a cheetah was seen. When we arrived, two jeeps of game watchers sat waiting patiently, eyes trained on a spot in the tall grass where the cheetah was supposed to be.

We were looking at the same place for so long, I no longer trusted what I was seeing. Was that a log or the cheetah? The grass was so tall, the color so similar to the cheetah’s skin, I couldn’t be sure. My eyes could play tricks on me but my camera wouldn’t lie, so I pointed it in the general direction, ready to shoot when the cheetah appeared.

We continued to sit and wait, whispering among ourselves from time to time; the radios silenced, so as not to startle the animal. After a while, the other jeeps gave up and left but Godfrey didn’t move. The cheetah, he said, had eaten the previous night and was resting, so we stayed put.

I’m not sure how long we waited, excitement bubbling in my stomach. Then Godfrey, binoculars covering his eyes, whispered urgently and pointed.

Where was it? There it is! Where? Where? We were all whispering loudly at the same time.

The cheetah had gotten up and was walking along. But by the time we spotted it, it dropped unexpectedly into the grass, as if its legs had failed him.

I couldn’t see much through my digital camera so I just snapped several times, hoping I’d get something. This is the best of the lot. If you look closely at the middle of the photo just before the log, you’ll see it.

Stalking Big Cats
Cheetah or log?

Caroline did much better.

Stalking Big Cats
Cheetah (courtesy of Caroline Billot)

I’m glad Godfrey decided to wait as this was the only cheetah we would see.

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Welcome to Makalolo Plains!

After driving around for several hours in pitch blackness, suddenly, we were bathed in the lights that signaled the end of our first night drive through Hwange National Park. As our jeep came to a stop, we could see that a party was waiting to greet us.

Tracey, Cynthia, Jeremy and Godfrey from Makalolo Plains welcomed us with warm towels and glasses of brandy and ushered us into the main part of the camp.

We needed them. After the sun dropped, a biting cold enveloped us. The breeze that felt balmy and welcoming during the early afternoon and evening lashed at our faces and hands. We felt like blocks of ice by the time we reached the camp.

In laying out the camp rules, Cynthia warned us that we had to be escorted, especially at nights, by someone from camp, and they’re always armed with a rifle – a reminder that we were surrounded by dangerous animals.

The word camp usually conjures up images of roughing it, of being without our usual comforts. That’s not the case at Makalolo Plains.

Makalolo Plains main building

Located within Hwange, Makalolo’s main building houses a pub, reception area, lounge, patio and dining room. The patio runs the length of the main building. At the end of the patio is a small pool. There’s also a sitting area where at night guests trade stories of their day’s activities around a fire that provides warmth as well as illumination. There’s no electricity at Makalolo.

Welcome to Makalolo Plains
A warm fire

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Countries I want to visit?

Funny you should ask. Just yesterday, I emailed a friend and travel partner about visiting Gabon, a country I’ve

Sculpture from Gabon

visited and she wants to visit.

Why Gabon? Well, besides the fact that I have longtime friends who live there, Gabon has stunningly beautiful wildlife, so a trip to the Lope-Okanda Reserve is a must; fabulous white sandal beaches, at Pointe Denis and Cap Esterias, for example. (I remember Le Cap being almost deserted.) I’d also like to see and do more outside of Libreville, like visiting Port Gentil and perhaps M’bigou, from where the popular M’bigou stone comes.

Rounding out my three countries would be Ethiopia and India. Both rate high on my scale for culture and history.

Ethiopia is an enchanting place that I’ve always wanted to see. One of my roommates shortly after college, was from Ethiopia. I remember a calendar she had that read, 13 months of sunshine. It puzzled me — how could there be 13 months? How did they come up with that number? I thought it was hyperbole. It isn’t. It’s actually a slogan for the Ethiopian Tourist Board.

But it’s more than that. You see, Ethiopia follows the lunar calendar, with each month lasting 30 days. The 13th month has 5 days, 6 if it’s a leap year. So, in Ethiopia, it’s actually 2003 this year, not 2011.

I’m absolutely fascinated by the ruins of Aksum and the stone churches at Lalibela. I’m surprised that I have not been yet.

India has been on my radar for many years now but I’ve never made the next move even though I also have a friend who lives there and who extends annual invitations. A visit to the Taj Mahal alone would be worth the trip.

India has fabulous food, fabrics, jewellery. It’s a place I know I’ll talk about for months after my visit.

So in answer to your question – these are the countries I’d like to visit.

Bon voyage to me!

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I’m posting everyday in 2011!

I’ve decided I want to blog more. Rather than just thinking about doing it, I’m starting right now.  I will be posting on this blog once a day  for all of 2011 – God (and WordPress) help me!

I know it won’t be easy, but it might be fun, inspiring, awesome and wonderful. Therefore I’m promising to make use of The DailyPost, and the community of other bloggers with similar goals, to help me along the way, including asking for help when I need it and encouraging others when I can.

If you already read my blog, I hope you’ll encourage me with comments and likes, and good will along the way.

Signed,

Marcia