For several weeks now, I’ve been mulling over what to write for Father’s Day and rejecting each idea that surfaced. I was undecided and a little conflicted about what to share — I like to keep private the few memories I have of him.
Sixteen years since he passed, I still think about my father quite a bit. Sometimes I hear an item on the news and wonder what he’d have to say about it.
I have no doubt, for example, that he’d be watching cricket and talking back to the television as if that would help the performance of the current West Indies team.
Ginger Lily, Soulful Sundays: Happy Father’s Day
We’d both be older now and moving into different roles. I wonder what our relationship would have been like. Would he let me fuss over him? Would he still be the same jovial person I remember?
Because of his job, my father traveled extensively around the island and overseas. Sometimes as I drive around now, I wonder what it would have been like having him as my co-pilot. I know it would have been fun to see the country from his perspective and share mine with him. I would have loved, for example, to have him show me his favorite places, the ones that were near to his heart, and meet some of his old friends.
I’d have been especially touched to have him show me the place that molded him into the man he became. From the stories I’ve heard over the years, his childhood home in the cool hills of Clarendon was a lovely place to grow up. Standing in the shade of a breadfruit or a mango tree, I would have loved to hear the stories again. This time, the images I’d created in my mind of where the yam hills were or the spot where the little shop used to be, and the school where he developed his thirst for learning would be replaced by new pictures with smells and sounds built in. I know there’d be at least one person whose house we’d have to stop at so he could say hello. And we wouldn’t have left without finding a bar to have a drink.
So on this Father’s Day, I remember Ken and wish, like Luther Vandross sang in this song, that I could have one more Dance With My Father.
In my post yesterday, I made a brief mention of Treasure Beach Jamaica, a place I’ve written about several times. Treasure Beach is a small community that is located on Jamaica’s south west coast, in the parish of St. Elizabeth. It is a close knit community where everyone knows everyone else. It reminds me of the district, that’s what we call them, that I grew up in – the kind of place we sometimes think no longer exists.
Treasure Beach is a 2-hour drive from Montego Bay, about 3 hours from Kingston. A number of the residents are involved in fishing but as tourism takes hold, more and more people are recognizing it as an option.
One thing I didn’t mention about Treasure Beach is Calabash, the literary festival that takes place there. It returned this year, so did the people who love literature – about 5,000 of them. Treasure Beach really is the perfect spot to listen to literature. Here are a few of the photos I took.
#TPThursday Treasure Beach – Calabash Int’l Lit Festival
On the first night, Chimananda Adichie, read from the piece she had written about moving into the house that had been vacated by the legendary Nigerian author, Chinua Achebe. I’d heard her read the same piece in New York at the event honoring Achebe but here in Treasure Beach, it felt new somehow, and different.
#TPThursday Treasure Beach – Calabash Int’l Lit Festival
And if the interviewee is boring, there’s this beautiful backdrop to focus on.
Since the festival lasts the weekend, we usually rent a villa.
#TPThursday Treasure Beach – Calabash Int’l Lit Festival
Doesn’t everyone have breakfast overlooking the ocean?
I can’t mention food and not mention accommodations in Treasure Beach. One cool thing here is that there is only one main hotel, aptly called the Treasure Beach Hotel, the rest is a mix of villas — small, large and luxurious — guest houses and private homes where you can rent a room, especially during the festival. If you’d like to find out more about villa accommodations in Treasure Beach, Jamaica Villa Rentals is a good place to start.
#TPThursday Treasure Beach Jamaica – Fishermen
The seas were rough most of the week we spent in Treasure Beach. Finally, on Saturday, it became calm and I spotted these fishermen bringing in their catch.
#TPThursday Treasure Beach Jamaica Sunset
No matter how rough the seas are, the sunsets in Treasure Beach are always spectacular.
This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday Series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.
Most people who visit Jamaica, never make it to the south coast. Those who do, experience a side of the island that’s unhurried, unspoiled and ruggedly beautiful.
Located on the southwest coast is the parish of St. Elizabeth, the second largest parish on the island. It shares part of the area known as the Great Morass, a wetland area that stretches from the neighboring parish of Westmoreland, and has one of the longest rivers, the Black River.
Over the years, the parish has been settled by various groups – from the Native Tainos and Miskito Indians of Central America to Scott, Spanish, Irish, Germans, Chinese and South Asian Indians – making for a racial mixture that is unique to St. Elizabeth.
Despite getting not a lot of rain, St. Elizabeth produces most of the vegetables sold on the island and has earned the reputation as the nation’s ‘bread basket.’ In its diverse landscape can be found swamps, waterfalls, rivers, mountains and caves.
Electricity was installed in Black River, the capital as early as 1893.
Here are 5 reasons why you should visit St. Elizabeth.
Nature
Bamboo Avenue– Also known as Holland Bamboo, this 2-mile stretch of road between Middle Quarters and Lacovia is
5 Reasons to Visit St. Elizabeth: Bamboo Avenue
bracketed by towering bamboo trees that form a natural canopy that makes the area lush and green.
Black River Safari – The hour-long ride down the Black River takes you into the lush vegetation of the Great Morass, a crocodile-filled swamp, with ducks, egrets, and other species of birds, rare plant life, logwood, royal palms and red mangroves with roots that go as deep as 40 feet. South Coast Safari, 876-965-2513
Spot a Manatee – Manatees can only be seen on Jamaica’s south coast. If you’d like to see one, head over to Alligator Park Nature Park, an eco-attraction that has three manatees, or to Treasure Beach, where they can be seen in the wild at certain specific times. Manatees weigh up to 3,000 pounds and can reach up to 14 feet. Because of their dwindling numbers – they usually get caught in fishermen’s nets or are caught and killed for their meat — manatees are now protected by the National Environment and Planning Agency.
Lovers’ Leap – According to local lore, rather than give herself to her master, Mizzy, a slave woman and Tunkey, her lover, plunged off the 1700-foot cliff to their deaths rather than allow him to be sold off. Despite the tragedy in its past, Lovers’ Leap offers some of the most breathtaking views of Jamaica’s south coast, especially from its restaurant. There’s also a lighthouse and wooden sculpture honoring the lovers.
YS Falls – YS Falls is the place to be whether you want to sit and read, spot birds, do a canopy tour of the falls or swing off a rope into the cool water below. Seven waterfalls, natural pools fed by underground springs, kids’ pool and activities for children make this an ideal spot for singles and families.
History & Culture
Accompong – The Maroons were runaway slaves who defeated the British many times over and eventually signed their own treaty with them in 1739. They were given lands in eastern and western Jamaica, one group settling in St Elizabeth in the foothills of the Cockpit Country. They named their community after Accompong, one of their leaders. Every year on January 6th, the Maroons celebrate their independence from Britain with a day-long celebration at Accompong.
5 Reasons to Visit St. Elizabeth: Appleton Estate & Rum Distillery
Black River Heritage Tour – This hour-long tour takes you back in time to the Black River of the 19th century when wealthy landowners made this one of Jamaica’s richest towns. This former shipping port was one of the most modern towns in Jamaica. It was the first to have electricity and motor cars, and one of the first to have telephones. The tour stops at the Georgian style Invercauld Great House, the Court House, another Georgian structure, and the St. Elizabeth Parish Church among other historic buildings.
Lacovia – Also known as the longest village in Jamaica, Lacovia is the site where a duel was fought between a Spanish and British soldier. The Spanish soldier won and won the girl. A tombstone marks the place where the British soldier, Thomas Jordan Spencer, age 15, was buried. He has been traced to the family of Princess Diana and Winston Churchill.
Rums
Appleton Estate & Rum Distillery – Covering more than 11,000 acres, Appleton Estate & Rum Distillery is one of the oldest in the country. It has been making rums since 1749, which makes it the second oldest distillery in the Caribbean. The tour of the distillery starts with a complimentary glass of rum punch, lasts about an hour, and ends with a tasting of 13 rums!
Beaches
Font Hill Beach – Part of a nature reserve, this golden sand beach is located near the Westmoreland /St. Elizabeth border. Open 9-5 daily.
Treasure Beach – The community of Treasure Beach comprises scenic bays, offering plenty of places to go for a swim, and watch the sun set.
Offbeat Places to Eat
5 Reasons to Visit St. Elizabeth – Pelican Bar
Pelican Bar– Located on a sandbank about a mile from Black River, Pelican Bar is the dream of owner, Floyd, who says he got a dream to build it. Pelican Bar is reachable only by boat. Food’s cooked to order.
Little Ochie – I debated whether to include Little Ochie in this list because, geographically, it is located in the neighboring parish of Manchester but most people think this cool little place, on the banks of Alligator Pond, is in St. Elizabeth. While there might be some confusion about its location there’s none about the food. Go here for some of the best seafood, done to order. Takes about 30 minutes.
Does St. Elizabeth sound like the kind of place you’d like to visit?
If you’re already in Jamaica or planning to visit, add St. Elizabeth to your itinerary. Check with your hotel to arrange a tour.
Known as the “Second City,” Montego Bay, or Mobay as it’s called locally, is the tourism capital of Jamaica, welcoming a million visitors annually at the Donald Sangster International Airport and by ship at the Montego Freeport.
The city offers an array of activities and attractions to suit every taste. Here are 5 of the best things to do in Montego Bay.
Golfing
Mobay has, without doubt, the best golf courses in Jamaica and possibly the Caribbean. There are five to choose from, Half Moon
Tryall Golf Course
Golf, White Witch, Cinnamon Hill, Tryall, and Superclubs Ironshore. Check each site for fees.
Cinnamon Hill – This 6,637 yard, 71 par course is located near the Cinnamon Hill and Rose Hall Great Houses and provides a delightful view of the Caribbean Sea. Fees are listed on their website. 876-953-2984
Tryall Club – 18 holes, 6221 yards, par 72 course overlooking the Caribbean Sea has been described as one of the most beautiful in the world. Tryall is located about 15 miles from Montego Bay and is part of Tryall Villas.
White Witch – Set over 200 acres, 16 of White Witch’s 18 holes overlook the Caribbean Sea. 876-518-0174
Bird Watching
Jamaica has more than 2 dozen birds that are found nowhere else in the world. If you love birds and are in the Montego Bay area, head over to the Rocklands Bird Sanctuary where you can spot up to 17 species, including the humming bird, Jamaica’s national bird, and feed them too!
Historic Sites
Step back in time at three of Jamaica’s great houses in the Mobay area: Bellefield, Greenwood and Rose Hall.
Bellefield Great House – Owned by the Kerr-Jarrett family, which traces its roots to 1655 when the first member of the Kerr clan from Scotland arrived in Jamaica after the British captured the island from the Spanish. A Kerr family member married a Jarrett and created one of the most powerful families on the island. Descendants of the Kerr-Jarretts are well-known and influential in Jamaican business and politics. Bellefield Great House was built in 1794 and is part of Barnett Estate, one of the oldest sugar estates on the island. To arrange a tour of the great house, call 952-2382 or email info@bellefieldgreathouse.com
Greenwood Great House
Greenwood Great House – Located about 25 minutes’ drive from Montego Bay, Greenwood was once owned by the family of the English poet, Elizabeth Barrett-Browning. It has the finest collection of musical instruments, antique furniture, china and books belonging to the family. Guided tours are available 7 days a week from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Rose Hall – Built as a calendar house in 1770, Rose Hall has 365 windows, 52 doors and 12 rooms. It was made famous by the former owner, Annie Palmer, aka the White Witch, who dispatched three husbands and several slave lovers before she was also killed by Takoo, a slave lover. Rose Hall offers day tours, and candlelight tours on some Friday and Saturday nights. 876-953-2323
Love to scuba? Check out Seaworld Resorts at the Cariblue Beach Hotel for excursions to offshore coral reefs with PADI-certified dive guides and equipment. 876-953-2180
Doctors Cave Bathing Club – Doctors Cave has been around since 1906 when Dr. Alexander McCatty donated the property for the
Doctors Cave Bathing Club
establishment of a bathing club. It became known as Doctors Cave because Dr. McCatty and his friends, medical doctors, used to get to the small beach through a cave. One of the best beaches in Montego Bay.
Almost next door to Doctors Cave is Cornwall Beach, a great place for snorkeling, as well as beach parties and events. Cornwall Beach is open daily from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. 876-979-0102 info@cornwallbeachja.com
If you’re interested in sport fishing, check your hotel. They can arrange it with one of the companies that specialize in Deep Sea Fishing. Catches can range from marlin, mahi mahi, tuna, sail fish, wahoo.
Tennis
Fancy a game of tennis? Try the Tryall Club or the Half Moon Hotel (953-2211)
This is just a handful of activities that Montego Bay to offer. The best part is that all are convenient to the airport, the Montego Freeport and the hotels.
Tanya Stephens represents the new crop of female reggae artist, those who are as brash and as confident as any of their male counterparts. Her strong lyrics and well-crafted songs reflect the world of the contemporary woman who’s capable not just of bringing home the bacon but, if needs be, frying it too.
Soulful Sundays: Tanya Stephens
Born Vivienne Tanya Stephens on July 2, 1973 in Kingston, she was named, along with Lady Saw, another Reggae artist, “top female artist in Jamaica” by the Washington Post in 1998.
Give a listen to It’s a Pity, the single that gained her international recognition.
My YS Falls adventure begins as soon as I board the tractor-drawn jitney that would take me from the main entrance of YS Estate, a 2,000-acre, privately owned stud farm, to the falls.
Falling for YS Falls
It’s a leisurely 10-minute ride through lush vegetation that stretches as far as the eye can see. Pass logwood or bloodwood trees, which the estate used to export to Europe back when dyes couldn’t be made without it, poinciana and ackee trees among others, grazing Jamaica Red Poll cattle with an egret or two waiting patiently to catch its next meal, and horses roaming freely in the distance.
About halfway into the ride, part of the YS River, from which the falls derive, comes into view, its sound hardly noticeable over the put-put-put of the jitney. The water is clear and looks refreshing on this day that is being baked slowly by the sun.
Wading Pool
As we come to a stop, I take in the view: a wading pool ringed by ginger lilies and lounge chairs is to my left, a gift shop and cafe on my right, and dead ahead, the bottom of the falls — the rest disappearing into the verdant foliage. A huge logwood tree with a platform catch my eye and as I look up, someone lets out a big woohoo as they take off flying 50 feet above the canopy of trees.
One of the seven fallsThe Falls
At approximately 120 meters, YS Falls has seven waterfalls that form several natural pools that invite you to take a dip or, for the more adventurous, a jump.
The FallsJumping in
There have been changes to the grounds since the last time I visited YS. Walkways now lead from the base of the falls to the top, a zip line canopy tour has been added and there’s tubing for the less adventurous. Several guides are on hand at each pool and accompany tubers and zip liners. Only swimmers are allowed to enter the water.
For the little ones, there are play areas far away from the water, and a few benches placed strategically around the grounds entice you to sit and enjoy nature’s bounty. Or grab a seat on the porch of the gift shop and watch as bird feeders call colorful hummingbirds to take a sip.
YS Estate is also a working stud farm that has produced several thoroughbred champions for Caymanas Park, the local racetrack.
Respect for the Environment
The Browne family, who own the estate and the falls, which are nestled in the foothills of the Cockpit Country, has taken great care in maintaining the natural environment. According to their site, when the falls opened in 1992, Simon Browne wanted to limit the number of visitors to 25 a day but that had to be revised as interest grew. Still, he’s said to monitor the numbers. (Groups are limited to 25.) In keeping with their drive to be environmentally aware, all toilets are eco-friendly.
My friend who joined me for the visit announced that she was in love with YS Falls, that because of the lushness of the surroundings, she preferred it to Dunn’s River Falls. True, YS feels more in harmony with the environment than Dunn’s River though I believe each has its own charm.
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Before you go:
YS Falls is located 50 miles from Montego Bay and Negril. Tours can be arranged through your hotel or guest house.
Admission: Adults $15/Children $7.50
Canopy Tour: Adults $42/Children $20
Tubing: $6 (20 minutes)
Hours: Tuesday to Sundays 9:30 – 4:00 p.m. Closed on Mondays and local holidays
Telephone: 876-997-6360
This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.
Born June Carol Lodge in London, England in 1958 to a Jamaican father and British mother, JC Lodge was taken to Jamaica as a child. She’s probably best known for her international hit, Telephone Love.
JC Lodge, image from the internet
An accomplished artist and actress, Lodge recorded more than 12 albums. She returned to live in the UK in 2001.
