Marcia Mayne travels a world full of books, music, art, fun people and great food. She raves about them constantly. Currently, she is journeying through Jamaica, her home country, to discover the places she missed.
I’ve been hearing about the night blooming cereus for at least three years now. As the name suggests, this plant from the flowering cactus family, blooms only at night — and only once per year. I was lucky, this time, to be visiting family when their night blooming cereus bloomed on Friday night; luckier still because I had my camera, and it put out not one but four blooms.
Sideview
It’s a slow process, this unfolding of the petals, but a lot more fun than watching paint dry. The bud begins its leisurely awakening around 10 pm. But by morning, the flower has wilted. It will come alive again when the special moth it attracts pollinates it.
Double flower
There I was on Friday night, going out to the back yard every hour or so, camera at the ready, to see how open the flower was. And each time, I’d take a few photos. I wish I’d taken some before photos.
Anyway, I did this about three times. Each time, the flower looked as if it was open just a bit more than the last. Even though they weren’t fully open, the fragrance from the night blooming cereus bathed the backyard in the most subtle perfume that I didn’t mind going again and again. I wish I could have bottled the scent.
Single cereus
The waiting was the hardest. At around midnight, I started to feel tired and decided, reluctantly, to go to sleep. I was a bit disappointed not to be able to see the full flowering of the night blooming cereus but I was happy to have seen it at all, and happier still to be able to take these photos.
Wilted cereus
By morning, the flower looked spent, like someone who’d been partying all night.
Here’s a time lapse video I found on YouTube of the opening of the night blooming cereus.
This week, I’m linking this post to Travel Photo Monday and Tablescraper. Be sure to check out the other photos that are posted there.
I’m fascinated by churches, especially their design. Sometimes they’re simple, almost stark, other times elaborate.
If I have my camera and can stop, I’ll take photos or I’ll get my camera and return later.
Whatever their design, however, churches inspire reverence.
St. Agnes Cathedral, Rockvile Center, NY
As I waited at the Rockville Center station for the train to Long Island a few years ago, I saw this church in the distance. I couldn’t believe how beautiful it looked but I couldn’t get close enough without missing my train. Interestingly, the first mass was celebrated in a blacksmith’s shop with an anvil serving as the altar. St. Agnes has come a long way since then, hosting Mother Theresa in 1986.
Ephesus Seventh-Day Adventist, New York
I used to stand on the corner opposite Ephesus in Harlem and stare up at the steeple. At 37 stories, it seems as if it could touch the sky. After doing that on several different occasions, I went back specifically to take a photo of it.
A fire in 1969, damaged the original steeple. It was replaced 35 years later with a new one which weights 7,000 pounds.
Second Reformed Church, Hackensack, NJ
I spotted this church on a side street in Hackensack, NJ. It wasn’t the one I set out to photograph but I liked the quiet elegant look of it. Researching it later, I discovered that the stained glass windows in the sanctuary were designed by Tiffany.
Capuchin Monastery, NY
I’m not sure how many times I walked pass this monastery near Penn Station, New York before I noticed the sign. Except for the statue, little else about the building says religion.
When I got home, I Googled the name and discovered that the Capucin Monastery Church of St. John is an Order of Friars that arose in 1520. It is part of the Catholic church.
This is my submission to Travel Photo Thursday, which Nancie at Budget Travelers Sandbox organizes. Be sure to head over and check out more photos from locations around the world.
Portland Jamaica is probably the island’s best tourist destination you’ve never heard of. It’s got beautiful beaches, soaring mountains, a network of caves, romantic coves, shimmering waterfalls and dramatic coastline. Because of its location, Portland also records the most rainfall of any parish on the island. It is lush and infused with rugged beauty.
Portland, a combination of the old parishes of St. George and part of the current St. Thomas, got its name from the Duke of Portland who was a Governor of Jamaica between 1722 and 1726. It is the seventh largest parish on the island.
Morning at Boston Beach
The parish was slow to develop because of the difficulty of farming the mountainous terrain and the fear of attack by the Eastern Maroons who could be found in the nearby Blue and John Crow Mountains. Despite a generous offer from the governor of land, beef, flour, freedom from taxes and arrest for three years very few settlers were interested.
But Portland’s soil and heavy rainfall were the perfect match for bananas, the crop that finally put it on the map in the late 1900s. Lorenzo Dow Baker is credited with developing the banana industry in Jamaica. The bananas he bought were shipped to the US, where they were sold at a handsome profit, making local farmers rich.
Reach Falls
The Birthplace of Tourism in Jamaica
Eventually, Baker’s United Fruit Company, for which Portland was a major hub, controlled the banana trade and was the major supplier of the produce on the east coast of the United States and even the UK. The company shipped bananas from Jamaica and brought goods back.
Some time after the 1900s, Baker began taking tourists to the island – boats were the only means of travel between Jamaica and other countries at that time. So began the tourism industry on the island.
The United Fruit Company built the Titchfield Hotel to accommodate the visitors who began pouring into Port Antonio, the capital. The hotel had 400 rooms was the center of activity in the parish.
Unfortunately, in 1903, hurricane devastated Portland and disease virtually destroyed the banana plantations and caused the decline in the parish’s economy.
From those early days, Portland has been known as the playground of the rich and famous. Errol Flynn once owned the Titchfield Hotel, which was destroyed by fire. His wife still lives in the parish.
What to do in Portland
Portland offers a variety of activities – birdwatching, snorkeling, hiking, rafting, swimming, camping or just taking it easy. Here are five activities you should check out:
Boston Bay – Home of the best jerk in Jamaica. If you love the flavors of real jerk, make sure to take home a bottle of sauce from the jerk center at Boston Bay.
Waterfalls – Because of the mountainous terrain, Portland has several refreshing waterfalls of different sizes. Check out Reach, which is situated in Manchioneal, or Somerset Falls, which is near Hope Bay.
Rafting on the Rio Grande – The oldest rafting center on the island is in Portland. Banana rafts were used originally to transport the produce from the plantations inland to Port Antonio. Today, the 4 km tour starts at Berrydale.
Beaches – Portland has several to choose from – San San, Frenchman’s Cove, Winnifred, Boston Beach.
Blue Mountain Hike – There are several hiking trails in the Blue Mountains of varying lengths and levels of difficulty.
I didn’t know what to expect from this jerk lobster meal at Little Ochie Seafood Restaurant but let me tell you, it surpassed my expectations. The delicate and slightly sweet taste of the lobster is a seamless marriage with the pungent flavors of the pimento, Scotch Bonnet pepper, mace, scallion and garlic that are the main ingredients of jerk. It was as if they were always destined to be.
Little Ochie’s Jerk Lobster
It was my first time having lobster done jerk style and when I tasted it, my first thought after I savored the mix of flavors was, why hadn’t any other restaurants put it on their menu?
In the early days, when the operation was smaller, the seafood was kept in buckets filled with ice. You’d pick your fish, lobster, crab, conch, or shrimp from the bucket and tell the chef how you wanted it done – jerked, grilled, curried, garlic, steamed, brown stewed, or escoveitched. It’s all refrigerated now but that hasn’t detracted from the fresh taste – and you still get to pick.
Once you place your order, look for a boat. I did say that Little Ochie is a seaside restaurant, didn’t I? Don’t worry – the boats are anchored in the sand and they now sport thatched roofs, tables and benches.
If the restaurant’s crowded when you arrive, secure your boat then place your order. Little Ochie’s small enough that your server will find you and bring your meal when it’s done, usually about half an hour later. It could take longer if you have a large party.
There are other items on the menu. The steamed fish is my other favorite and I order that when lobster is out of season. I’ll write about that another time.
How to Make Jerk Lobster
Ingredients
4 lobster tails
2 tsp. Jerk Seasoning
½ cup Butter
2 whole scallions
2 tsps. lemon/lime juice
½ tsp. of hot sauce or 3 drops of Jamaican hot pepper sauce (optional)
Method:
Slice scallions thinly.
Melt the butter in a small skillet and sauté the scallions until it is golden.
Add the 2 teaspoons of lemon juice.
Add ½ teaspoon of hot sauce or 3 drops of Jamaican hot pepper sauce (optional depending on your taste).
Let it simmer for about 1 min. then set aside.
Remove the membrane from the lobster tails and use a sharp knife to split them in half (lengthwise).
Use a brush to put the butter sauce on each tail.
Using the same brush, spread the Jerk sauce over the tails especially on the exposed meat. Put your oven setting to broil.
Put the lobster tails in oven on the meat side for 4 minutes. Turn and cook the shell side for 2 minutes.
If you want a more smoked taste, you should cook the lobster tails for 2 minutes on each side in the oven, then place on a barbeque grill for 3 minutes. You may need to add more Jerk sauce if you put it on the grill.
Serve with Festival, bammy or Jamaican hardo bread, or assorted steamed vegetables.
For a true taste of Jamaica, have a cold Red Stripe beer.
Enjoy!
Recipe adapted from jamaicans.com
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If you’ve been to Jamaica, one thing you’re sure to notice is goats, lots of them. Everywhere.
Sitting on a grave
Last year, while I was on a visit to St. Peter’s Anglican Church in Falmouth, I noticed this goat sitting calmly on one of the graves in the church yard.
I thought it would move as I got closer so that I could get a better shot but it didn’t. I figured the poor goat needed more time – to rest, maybe. It was a hot day and these headstones were on the shaded side of the church.
Jamaicans Love Curried Goat
One of our favorite meals here is curried goat. It’s on every menu in every Jamaican restaurant or cook shop at least once a week. No wedding celebration, birthday party, or gathering is complete without it yet with all the goats we have running around, we still import about 80% of the goat meat we consume. That’s a lot of imported meat.
I prefer the local to the imported goat. I also prefer to buy from the butcher, even better from the herder/owner because freshness counts. (The supermarkets put labels on so you know which one you’re buying.)
Anyway, after all that, it occurred to me that maybe the poor thing wasn’t resting. Maybe it was just being thankful that it didn’t end up as dinner.
Do you think the goat was giving thanks?
Today, I’m linking up with Travel Photo Discovery’s Travel Photo Monday. Head over to join the link up or check out photos from around the world.
The gumbay drum caught my attention at the Accompong Maroon Festival in January. I’d never seen a drum that was small and square and looked more like a stool than a drum.
As I was leaving the festival, I noticed a small stall with storyboards explaining how gumbay drums are made. There were also several drums on display. The gentleman inside introduced himself as the son of the master drum maker.
Son of the master drum makerThe master drum makerStoryboard of the master drum maker
Although simple in design, the gumbay drum has several parts. The inner part of is called a baby, the outer part the frame. The top, which is usually made from the skin of the female goat, is the membrane. Maroons use the gumbay drum in their rituals and traditional ceremonies. They are also used to induce a trance state and to communicate with the ancestors.
Storyboard
He explained how the drums were made — the design looked simple enough for a professional. I doubt that I would have been able to fit the pieces together as easily. He also demonstrated the special rhythms that drummers play in the different instances when the drum is used. (Sorry, I can’t find my notes and I’ve forgotten the names of the master drum maker and his son.)
Drums on displayCloseup
This is my submission to Travel Photo Thursday, which is organized by Nancie at Budget Travelers Sandbox. Be sure to head over and check out more photos from locations around the world.
Most travelers have a trip that’s so full of travel memories, they recall it over and over, like fishermen obsessing about the one that got away. I’m one of them.
My three-month stay in Barcelona was the flowering of an idea that had become planted in my mind back when I was a student in high school in rural Jamaica. Out of the blue one day, our Spanish teacher spent an entire period regaling us with her stories of her time as a student in Spain. She had us captivated, hanging on to every word of every story she told us. For days after, I kept dreaming of the Spain that I had created from her stories. In reality, however, Spain was as far away and as foreign as the moon but I saw myself there.
Ciutadella Park, 1977
I don’t remember how or when I found out about the semester abroad program that my university was offering but in January 1977, I was among the group of 10 that left cold and snowy Ottawa behind to study Spanish in Barcelona. During our time there, we created many happy travel memories in Sitges, Madrid, Mallorca, the Costa Brava, Montserrat, Ullastret, Vich, Villanova, Ripoll, Tarragona, Tibidabo, Perpignon, Ampurias and Andorra. Here a few that I’d like to share with you.
Travel Memories – First Impressions
Coming out of nearly 40 years of the repressive dictatorship of Generalissimo Francisco Franco, I’d imagined that Spain would have been drab and militaristic. Instead, Barcelona was vibrant and colorful — everything pulsed with life. I was enthralled by the architecture, music, art, culture and food, and Barcelona made me feel alive and in love with life.
Although we arrived in winter, there was little snow and the temperatures were much warmer than in Ottawa. Most days, I wore sweaters and shirts, occasionally a light jacket. So I was surprised to see many of the women, all fashionably dressed and wrapped up in their furs. You see, we’d also heard that salaries in Spain were lower than in Canada so it baffled us to see women so well dressed. Young Barcelonians, however, rocked jeans that were so tight, I wondered how they took a breath.
Travel Memories – The Tuna
One night, a group of us went to a tuna at the University of Barcelona. A tuna is a centuries old tradition where student musicians dress in traditional garb and serenade their audience with singing and guitar playing. After the performance that night, a few of us followed the tunas to a restaurant where their singing was backed up by tub after tub of sangria. As soon as a tub was empty, another would appear as if by magic. No doubt fueled by the wine, we joined in and sang as lustily as a church choir. I’m not sure how much sangria we had but by the time we left, we were all stepping a little lightly. Somehow we made it home safely but I could hardly move the next day.
Travel Memories – There’s Always Someone Who Understands
On a packed metro, the notion of personal space goes out the door as soon as you enter the car. We all knew about the metro and had heard stories of women being groped. Because of that, my roommate and I always walked to school but on this particular day, I don’t remember why, we took the metro. As the door pulled shut, and the other riders pressed in on me, I commented in our dialect to my roommate, who was also Jamaican, that I was being squashed. I added, jokingly, what I thought could happen if we didn’t get off soon. Of course we thought we were clever. We were in our own little world sharing a joke only we got. We hadn’t stopped laughing when a male voice responded, “Don’t worry, I’ll take care of you.” I was so embarrassed, I wanted to disappear. I don’t remember even looking back to see who it was. Luckily, ours was the next stop and as we exited, we burst into laughter. Every so often my roommate or I would do our best impressions of our potential savior and we’d laugh all over again.
Travel Memories – A Message I’ve Never Forgotten
When I joined the line at the airline office to change my return ticket (no penalty!) and buy a ticket to London, I noticed an agent whose face was as pockmarked as the surface of the moon. He must have felt me staring at him because he turned and looked directly at me. His face was expressionless, his eyes blank. I didn’t want him to assist me but as soon as the thought crossed my mind, I knew he would. As I explained what I wanted to do, he replied, You can get anything you want in the world. I’m sure he said it in response to my question, but for me, it was a message. That message, that anything I want can be mine, has never left me.
My stay in Barcelona provided many indelible travel memories. It also transformed me in ways I only understood and appreciated later.
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A few mornings ago, my neighbor brought me two jelly coconuts – the young coconut with meat that is translucent and soft, or sometimes pale white. Part of the husk or bark had already been removed. Although, it was only about 8 a.m., I still hadn’t had breakfast so I asked him to take off the tip so I could drink the water. It was refreshing.
A farm
As I fixed breakfast that morning, I thought about the coconut. The coconut is a multi-purpose fruit. We not only drink the water, which is full of vitamins, amino acids and electrolytes, we also eat the meat as is.
When the coconut is mature, the jelly become firm and white. It is scooped out of the husk, grated and mixed with water to make milk for cooking, and grated or diced for baking.
A large bunch
All of the Coconut is Used
Before electric floor polishers became popular, we polished our floors and used a brush that was made from the top part of a dry (mature) coconut to shine them.
In the rural areas of Jamaica, brooms to sweep the yard, were made from the reeds of coconut leaves. The leaf can also be plaited to make hats, baskets, etc., and the fiber from the coconut husk, called coir, is used to make mats and mattresses.
Vendor
Coconut water low in calories and sodium, naturally fat- and cholesterol-free, and has more potassium than four bananas. It is very hydrating and is definitely better for you than sports drinks.
But that’s not all: coconut water has been used as a blood plasma substitute and it’s also been used to supply glucose. It is as effective as statin drugs that are used to manage cholesterol. No wonder celebrities and sports figures are chugging it like they do water.
And oil made from coconut is considered to be healthier than butter, trans fats and probably even animal fats.
Adding a little rum
Most families have a coconut tree or two in their backyards. If you have to buy, a medium-sized coconut costs $1-2 here.
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Croydon Plantation in the Catadupa Mountains of St. James, owes its reputation to pineapples and coffee, as well as its connection to national hero, Samuel Sharpe. Sharpe was born a slave in 1801 at Croydon and became a Baptist preacher. In December 1831, Sharpe organized a peaceful protest at plantations in the western end of the island that turned into the largest rebellion on the island. It took the military two weeks to end the rebellion, which by then had caused hundreds of deaths. They captured the leaders, including Sharpe, who was hanged in 1832.
A few months ago, a friend and I boarded the tour bus that would take us on the hour-long drive from Freeport, Montego Bay to Catadupa. Our guide kept us entertained with stories and jokes that sometimes it was easy to ignore the bumps on the windy mountain road. Note: if you get car sick easily and want to do this tour, think about riding in the back of the bus and away from the windows.
Pine trees
At Croydon Plantation, which stretches 132 acres, we learned about the different varieties of pineapples – Ripley, Guyana, Cowboy, Sugar – that are grown there. The best part? We got to taste them.
Fields of pineapple
We did a lot of tasting and smelling on the walk from the coffee station, where our guide demonstrated how the beans are harvested, to the main area where we had lunch. Our tour guide pointed out jackfruits, grapefruits, star fruits, limes, sugarcane, sweetsop, and other fruits, herbs and spices.
Pineapple with new shootsTasting the pineapples
The tour ended with a delicious lunch of jerk chicken, rice and peas and salad. It was followed by a short presentation by one of the owners.
Monument to Sam Sharpe
In recognition of Sam Sharpe’s connection to Croydon Plantation, the owners have placed statues of the national hero on the grounds. Similar sculptures can also be seen in Sam Sharpe Square in Montego Bay.
Croydon Plantation Particulars
Tours are conducted on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.
Cost: $70, includes the tour, lunch and roundtrip transportation. 876-979-8267.
For more photos from locations around the world, head over to Travel Photo Mondays, which is organized by Noel at Travel Photo Discovery.
Earlier this week, I wrote about my visit to Hope Zoo to see Lucas, the African lion that was donated to the zoo. I didn’t only see Lucas. As I made my way to his enclosure, I came across a few of the other animals that make their home at the zoo.
Entrance to Hope Zoo
It was hard to miss the pink flamingos even as they appeared to be hiding behind the foliage.
Pink Flamingo
Hope Zoo Jamaica occupies 60 acres next door to Hope Botanical Gardens in Kingston. The zoo was opened in 1961. It is currently being revitalized and new animals, like Lucas the lion and are being added to its collection, which includes macaws, tortoises, budgies, ostriches, zebras, capucin, crocodiles, and flamingos.
Snacking turtlesCrocodile
The day I visited, Hope Zoo was crawling with school children all smartly dressed in their uniforms. I doubt they were older than 10 or 11 years.
Hope Zoo, a popular destination for students
Exiting Hope Zoo.
As you exit the zoo
Animals at the zoo are kept in enclosures that are surrounded by wire mesh and tropical foliage that gives a natural feel to the environment. But I had to be creative in taking photos so the mesh wasn’t too obvious.
The zoo offers a petting area, group tours and venue rentals.
Hope Zoo Jamaica Particulars
Address: Old Hope Road, Kingston
Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Sunday; 10:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on public holidays
**It’s advisable to go early, say as the zoo opens, or wait until mid-afternoon when the sun cools to get a better chance of seeing the animals.
Current Entrance Fees: $5 (adults); $3 children aged 3-12; free for children under 2
**Prices are expected to increase now that Lucas the lion has arrived
