Devon House Revisited

Posted on July 25, 2013June 30, 2018 by Marcia Mayne

I’ve written about Devon House but only recently returned to do a tour of the Georgian style house, which is located in Kingston. Devon House was built in 1881 for George Stiebel on a property that was known as Devon Penn.

Devon House, a Georgian mansion built in Kingston in 1881 — The fountain

Popularly described as Jamaica’s first black millionaire, Stiebel, the child of German and Jamaican parents, was a carpenter, shipper and gun runner. He struck gold after he invested in a mine in Venezuela and made a fortune, returning to the island a rich man. Stiebel got involved in politics and business, bought 99 properties — it was illegal to own 100 or more – and built Devon House.

Partial view of the upper vestibule at Devon House — Vestibule with wing backed and planter’s chairs

The house features classical Georgian lines – simple form, detailing and symmetry. It was built entirely of brick and wood with high ceilings, carved transoms over elegant doors, and ample louvered windows that circulate air efficiently throughout the house. The furniture is a mix of Jamaican, English and French antiques, and reproductions. The large 35-foot ballroom is, without doubt, the mansion’s showpiece with its Broadwood piano, Wedgwood ceiling and English chandelier that Stiebel bought.

Devon House, the Palm Hall featuring painted murals on walls — Palm Hall, with partial view of the living room

Formal dining room at Devon House — Dining room with Chippendale dining table

Stiebel married Magdalene Baker in 1851 and had two children Sigismund, named after his father, and Theresa. When he died in 1896, the mansion passed to Theresa, then Theresa Jackson, the only surviving child. It was later sold to the Melhados in 1922, then to the Lindos, who lived there until 1965. Devon House was turned over to the government of Jamaica. Today, the mansion, which sits on 11 acres, is known as one of the premier destinations in Kingston to enjoy culture, art and heritage, the lush grounds, and its very popular “I-scream” (ice cream).

Master bedroom with canopy bed at Devon House — Master bedroom

Partial view of the master bathroom at Devon House — Part of the master bathroom

A room for games at Devon House — A room for games

A sewing room with fainting couch at Devon House — Sewing room with fainting couch

Wedgwood ceiling and English chandelier at Devon House — The 35-foot Devon House Ballroom with Broadwood piano

The mansion has been restored several times, the latest in 2008. Many of the old buildings from Stiebel’s time are still in use. For example, the Grog Shoppe was the horse and carriage stable and blacksmith’s shop; the Courtyard Shops were servants quarters, and the current Devon House Bakery used to be the kitchen. When I visited recently, workers were replacing the wooden shingles on these buildings.

The welcoming entrance to Devon House — Entrance to Devon House

The expansive lawn at Devon House — Devon House lawn

Devon House Particulars

Tours run on weekdays only with the last tour at 4:30 p.m.

Cost: $10, per person, includes ice cream.

Devon House is located at 26 Hope Road in Kingston.

This is my submission to Travel Photo Thursday, organized by Nancie at Budget Travelers Sandbox. Be sure to head over and check out more photos from locations around the world.

Foodie Tuesday: Steamed Fish, Jamaican Style

Posted on July 23, 2013July 30, 2013 by Marcia Mayne

My father loved steamed fish. It seemed to me that he had it all the time, that it was his favorite breakfast meal. With green bananas or yam. I think this habit of his of eating this way for breakfast was because he grew up in rural Jamaica where a substantial morning meal was common.

I was never a big fan of steamed fish. I prefer my fish fried as crispy as chips so that the bones snap when I bite into them.

Fast forward several years later and I’m dating. The guy I’m seeing – T – goes on and on about the steamed fish at Little Ochie. At first, I thought he was talking about someplace near Ocho Rios since, locally, everyone calls it “Ochie.” Then he explains that it’s a restaurant that has the best seafood in Jamaica. What could be so special about this particular restaurant, I wondered. I mean, any halfway decent housewife or chef knows how to steam fish. It wasn’t rocket science so I wasn’t impressed.

Early one Sunday morning, T took me there. Used plastic cups, utensils, and food-streaked styrofoam plates had been tossed carelessly over the beach area fronting the restaurant. That and the large black speakers that were hoisted on stands at either end of the beach said that a dance had taken place the previous night. The staff was busy putting things back in order.

T strutted straight to the back, as if he had shares in the restaurant, to where the fish were kept in buckets filled with ice. He then explained that I had to pick the fish I wanted. I chose a lovely red snapper. When the chef asked, I told him I wanted it with bammie, a flat bread, like Pita, that’s made from cassava. (On its own, bammie’s pretty bland. It can also be chewy but it’s a great accompaniment to fish – it’s typically eaten with escoveitch fish. It also stands out when combined with steamed fish, with its soft texture, mix of spices, and delicious gravy, though it will absorb the gravy.)

T wouldn’t hear of the bammie and talked me into having my fish with Excelsior Water Crackers, a hard cracker with a dent in the middle that has been a staple of the Jamaican diet for more than 100 years. Unlike the bammie, Excelsior Water Crackers stand up well in everything from gravies and jam, to butter and meats. I’d never had it with steamed fish before but decided to give it a try.

Back at our table in a thatched covered boat, we waited for the meal to arrive. It did, about 30 minutes later, covered in transparent wrap to protect it from sand and spills.

My eyes bulged. This was not my father’s steamed fish, not in the least! The fish, cooked whole and laid out on a large plate, was almost covered by strips of carrot, chopped okra, and slices of potato and cho cho (christophene or chayote). Crackers lined the plate like an embroidered collar.

All the ingredients were cooked together, allowing the juices from the fish and vegetables to mix with the scallion, thyme, peppers and onions. Pimento (allspice) berries, with its mix of cinnamon, clove, pepper, ginger and nutmeg, gave it a nice warm, almost woodsy, flavor. The vegetables were soft but not mushy, the fish firm and succulent. I ate everything, including my words, that morning. I had to admit, it was the best steamed fish I’d had.

Steamed fish with vegetables — Steamed Fish with potato, carrots, okra, bammie

I’ve been back to Little Ochie several times since then and, except when lobster’s in season, it’s the steamed fish I order – sometimes with crackers, other times with bammie. It tastes just the same as it did that Sunday morning.

Steamed Fish, Jamaican Style

Ingredients

1 large snapper, scaled, gutted and cleaned
A few okras, chopped
1 cho cho, julienned
1 carrot, julienned
1 large onion, sliced
2 stalks of escallion
1 sprig of thyme
Crushed pimento grains and black peppercorns
1 tbsp margarine
Fish seasoning to taste
Salt to taste
Excelsior Water Crackers (optional – I noticed that it’s available on Amazon!)

Method

Slice the cleaned fish and season with black pepper, salt, and fish seasoning.
Add to a large pot roughly a cup and a half of water (or more if needed) just enough to cover the fish.
Next add all the other ingredients and cover the pot tightly.
Simmer over medium heat until the fish and vegetables are cooked (approximately 20 minutes, it all depends on the thickness of the fish, so eyeball it).
Add crackers at the end.

Note: I modified this recipe that I found on the Jamaica Observer site.

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The Night Blooming Cereus

Posted on July 22, 2013July 22, 2013 by Marcia Mayne

I’ve been hearing about the night blooming cereus for at least three years now. As the name suggests, this plant from the flowering cactus family, blooms only at night — and only once per year. I was lucky, this time, to be visiting family when their night blooming cereus bloomed on Friday night; luckier still because I had my camera, and it put out not one but four blooms.

Night Blooming Cereus seen from the side — Sideview

It’s a slow process, this unfolding of the petals, but a lot more fun than watching paint dry. The bud begins its leisurely awakening around 10 pm. But by morning, the flower has wilted. It will come alive again when the special moth it attracts pollinates it.

Two night blooming cereus — Double flower

There I was on Friday night, going out to the back yard every hour or so, camera at the ready, to see how open the flower was. And each time, I’d take a few photos. I wish I’d taken some before photos.

Anyway, I did this about three times. Each time, the flower looked as if it was open just a bit more than the last. Even though they weren’t fully open, the fragrance from the night blooming cereus bathed the backyard in the most subtle perfume that I didn’t mind going again and again. I wish I could have bottled the scent.

Almost fully opened night blooming cereus — Single cereus

The waiting was the hardest. At around midnight, I started to feel tired and decided, reluctantly, to go to sleep. I was a bit disappointed not to be able to see the full flowering of the night blooming cereus but I was happy to have seen it at all, and happier still to be able to take these photos.

Wilted Night Blooming Cereus — Wilted cereus

By morning, the flower looked spent, like someone who’d been partying all night.

Here’s a time lapse video I found on YouTube of the opening of the night blooming cereus.

This week, I’m linking this post to Travel Photo Monday and Tablescraper. Be sure to check out the other photos that are posted there.

5 Reasons to Visit Portland Jamaica

Posted on July 17, 2013July 18, 2013 by Marcia Mayne

Portland Jamaica is probably the island’s best tourist destination you’ve never heard of. It’s got beautiful beaches, soaring mountains, a network of caves, romantic coves, shimmering waterfalls and dramatic coastline. Because of its location, Portland also records the most rainfall of any parish on the island. It is lush and infused with rugged beauty.

Portland, a combination of the old parishes of St. George and part of the current St. Thomas, got its name from the Duke of Portland who was a Governor of Jamaica between 1722 and 1726. It is the seventh largest parish on the island.

Boston Beach, Portland — Morning at Boston Beach

The parish was slow to develop because of the difficulty of farming the mountainous terrain and the fear of attack by the Eastern Maroons who could be found in the nearby Blue and John Crow Mountains. Despite a generous offer from the governor of land, beef, flour, freedom from taxes and arrest for three years very few settlers were interested.

But Portland’s soil and heavy rainfall were the perfect match for bananas, the crop that finally put it on the map in the late 1900s. Lorenzo Dow Baker is credited with developing the banana industry in Jamaica. The bananas he bought were shipped to the US, where they were sold at a handsome profit, making local farmers rich.

The Birthplace of Tourism in Jamaica

Eventually, Baker’s United Fruit Company, for which Portland was a major hub, controlled the banana trade and was the major supplier of the produce on the east coast of the United States and even the UK. The company shipped bananas from Jamaica and brought goods back.

Some time after the 1900s, Baker began taking tourists to the island – boats were the only means of travel between Jamaica and other countries at that time. So began the tourism industry on the island.

The United Fruit Company built the Titchfield Hotel to accommodate the visitors who began pouring into Port Antonio, the capital. The hotel had 400 rooms was the center of activity in the parish.

Unfortunately, in 1903, hurricane devastated Portland and disease virtually destroyed the banana plantations and caused the decline in the parish’s economy.

From those early days, Portland has been known as the playground of the rich and famous. Errol Flynn once owned the Titchfield Hotel, which was destroyed by fire. His wife still lives in the parish.

What to do in Portland

Portland offers a variety of activities – birdwatching, snorkeling, hiking, rafting, swimming, camping or just taking it easy. Here are five activities you should check out:

Boston Bay – Home of the best jerk in Jamaica. If you love the flavors of real jerk, make sure to take home a bottle of sauce from the jerk center at Boston Bay.

Waterfalls – Because of the mountainous terrain, Portland has several refreshing waterfalls of different sizes. Check out Reach, which is situated in Manchioneal, or Somerset Falls, which is near Hope Bay.

Rafting on the Rio Grande – The oldest rafting center on the island is in Portland. Banana rafts were used originally to transport the produce from the plantations inland to Port Antonio. Today, the 4 km tour starts at Berrydale.

Beaches – Portland has several to choose from – San San, Frenchman’s Cove, Winnifred, Boston Beach.

Blue Mountain Hike – There are several hiking trails in the Blue Mountains of varying lengths and levels of difficulty.

Foodie Tuesday: Jerk Lobster, Little Ochie Style

Posted on July 16, 2013July 30, 2013 by Marcia Mayne

I didn’t know what to expect from this jerk lobster meal at Little Ochie Seafood Restaurant but let me tell you, it surpassed my expectations. The delicate and slightly sweet taste of the lobster is a seamless marriage with the pungent flavors of the pimento, Scotch Bonnet pepper, mace, scallion and garlic that are the main ingredients of jerk. It was as if they were always destined to be.

Jerk Lobster from Little Ochie — Little Ochie’s Jerk Lobster

It was my first time having lobster done jerk style and when I tasted it, my first thought after I savored the mix of flavors was, why hadn’t any other restaurants put it on their menu?

I’ve written about Little Ochie Seafood Restaurant before but it deserves another mention. Here’s the thing about this place: it’s got an offbeat, distinctive ambiance – and they prepare each meal to order.

In the early days, when the operation was smaller, the seafood was kept in buckets filled with ice. You’d pick your fish, lobster, crab, conch, or shrimp from the bucket and tell the chef how you wanted it done – jerked, grilled, curried, garlic, steamed, brown stewed, or escoveitched. It’s all refrigerated now but that hasn’t detracted from the fresh taste – and you still get to pick.

Once you place your order, look for a boat. I did say that Little Ochie is a seaside restaurant, didn’t I? Don’t worry – the boats are anchored in the sand and they now sport thatched roofs, tables and benches.

If the restaurant’s crowded when you arrive, secure your boat then place your order. Little Ochie’s small enough that your server will find you and bring your meal when it’s done, usually about half an hour later. It could take longer if you have a large party.

There are other items on the menu. The steamed fish is my other favorite and I order that when lobster is out of season. I’ll write about that another time.

How to Make Jerk Lobster

Ingredients

4 lobster tails
2 tsp. Jerk Seasoning
½ cup Butter
2 whole scallions
2 tsps. lemon/lime juice
½ tsp. of hot sauce or 3 drops of Jamaican hot pepper sauce (optional)

Method:

Slice scallions thinly.
Melt the butter in a small skillet and sauté the scallions until it is golden.
Add the 2 teaspoons of lemon juice.
Add ½ teaspoon of hot sauce or 3 drops of Jamaican hot pepper sauce (optional depending on your taste).
Let it simmer for about 1 min. then set aside.
Remove the membrane from the lobster tails and use a sharp knife to split them in half (lengthwise).
Use a brush to put the butter sauce on each tail.
Using the same brush, spread the Jerk sauce over the tails especially on the exposed meat. Put your oven setting to broil.
Put the lobster tails in oven on the meat side for 4 minutes. Turn and cook the shell side for 2 minutes.
If you want a more smoked taste, you should cook the lobster tails for 2 minutes on each side in the oven, then place on a barbeque grill for 3 minutes. You may need to add more Jerk sauce if you put it on the grill.
Serve with Festival, bammy or Jamaican hardo bread, or assorted steamed vegetables.
For a true taste of Jamaica, have a cold Red Stripe beer.

Enjoy!

Recipe adapted from jamaicans.com

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Holy Goat!

Posted on July 15, 2013July 18, 2013 by Marcia Mayne

If you’ve been to Jamaica, one thing you’re sure to notice is goats, lots of them. Everywhere.

Goat sitting in the shade of a church — Sitting on a grave

Last year, while I was on a visit to St. Peter’s Anglican Church in Falmouth, I noticed this goat sitting calmly on one of the graves in the church yard.

I thought it would move as I got closer so that I could get a better shot but it didn’t. I figured the poor goat needed more time – to rest, maybe. It was a hot day and these headstones were on the shaded side of the church.

Jamaicans Love Curried Goat

One of our favorite meals here is curried goat. It’s on every menu in every Jamaican restaurant or cook shop at least once a week. No wedding celebration, birthday party, or gathering is complete without it yet with all the goats we have running around, we still import about 80% of the goat meat we consume. That’s a lot of imported meat.

I prefer the local to the imported goat. I also prefer to buy from the butcher, even better from the herder/owner because freshness counts. (The supermarkets put labels on so you know which one you’re buying.)

Anyway, after all that, it occurred to me that maybe the poor thing wasn’t resting. Maybe it was just being thankful that it didn’t end up as dinner.

Do you think the goat was giving thanks?

Today, I’m linking up with Travel Photo Discovery’s Travel Photo Monday. Head over to join the link up or check out photos from around the world.

The Gumbay Drum

Posted on July 11, 2013July 11, 2013 by Marcia Mayne

The gumbay drum caught my attention at the Accompong Maroon Festival in January. I’d never seen a drum that was small and square and looked more like a stool than a drum.

As I was leaving the festival, I noticed a small stall with storyboards explaining how gumbay drums are made. There were also several drums on display. The gentleman inside introduced himself as the son of the master drum maker.

Gumbay drum maker's son — Son of the master drum maker

Maker of the gumbay drum — The master drum maker

Sanding the gumbay drum — Storyboard of the master drum maker

Although simple in design, the gumbay drum has several parts. The inner part of is called a baby, the outer part the frame. The top, which is usually made from the skin of the female goat, is the membrane. Maroons use the gumbay drum in their rituals and traditional ceremonies. They are also used to induce a trance state and to communicate with the ancestors.

Storyboard explaining the making of the gumbay drum — Storyboard

He explained how the drums were made — the design looked simple enough for a professional. I doubt that I would have been able to fit the pieces together as easily. He also demonstrated the special rhythms that drummers play in the different instances when the drum is used. (Sorry, I can’t find my notes and I’ve forgotten the names of the master drum maker and his son.)

This is my submission to Travel Photo Thursday, which is organized by Nancie at Budget Travelers Sandbox. Be sure to head over and check out more photos from locations around the world.

Croydon Plantation Jamaica

Posted on July 8, 2013April 10, 2016 by Marcia Mayne

Croydon Plantation in the Catadupa Mountains of St. James, owes its reputation to pineapples and coffee, as well as its connection to national hero, Samuel Sharpe. Sharpe was born a slave in 1801 at Croydon and became a Baptist preacher. In December 1831, Sharpe organized a peaceful protest at plantations in the western end of the island that turned into the largest rebellion on the island. It took the military two weeks to end the rebellion, which by then had caused hundreds of deaths. They captured the leaders, including Sharpe, who was hanged in 1832.

A few months ago, a friend and I boarded the tour bus that would take us on the hour-long drive from Freeport, Montego Bay to Catadupa. Our guide kept us entertained with stories and jokes that sometimes it was easy to ignore the bumps on the windy mountain road. Note: if you get car sick easily and want to do this tour, think about riding in the back of the bus and away from the windows.

Pine and other trees at Croydon Plantation — Pine trees

At Croydon Plantation, which stretches 132 acres, we learned about the different varieties of pineapples – Ripley, Guyana, Cowboy, Sugar – that are grown there. The best part? We got to taste them.

Rows of pineapples at Croydon Plantation — Fields of pineapple

We did a lot of tasting and smelling on the walk from the coffee station, where our guide demonstrated how the beans are harvested, to the main area where we had lunch. Our tour guide pointed out jackfruits, grapefruits, star fruits, limes, sugarcane, sweetsop, and other fruits, herbs and spices.

Pineapple with new shoots, Croydon Plantation — Pineapple with new shoots

Tasting pineapples at Croydon Plantation — Tasting the pineapples

The tour ended with a delicious lunch of jerk chicken, rice and peas and salad. It was followed by a short presentation by one of the owners.

Sam Sharpe monument to Sam Sharpe — Monument to Sam Sharpe

In recognition of Sam Sharpe’s connection to Croydon Plantation, the owners have placed statues of the national hero on the grounds. Similar sculptures can also be seen in Sam Sharpe Square in Montego Bay.

Croydon Plantation Particulars

Tours are conducted on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.

Cost: $70, includes the tour, lunch and roundtrip transportation. 876-979-8267.

For more photos from locations around the world, head over to Travel Photo Mondays, which is organized by Noel at Travel Photo Discovery.

A Few Photos from Hope Zoo Jamaica

Posted on July 5, 2013 by Marcia Mayne

Earlier this week, I wrote about my visit to Hope Zoo to see Lucas, the African lion that was donated to the zoo. I didn’t only see Lucas. As I made my way to his enclosure, I came across a few of the other animals that make their home at the zoo.

Hope Zoo entrance — Entrance to Hope Zoo

It was hard to miss the pink flamingos even as they appeared to be hiding behind the foliage.

Pink Flamingo at Hope Zoo — Pink Flamingo

Hope Zoo Jamaica occupies 60 acres next door to Hope Botanical Gardens in Kingston. The zoo was opened in 1961. It is currently being revitalized and new animals, like Lucas the lion and are being added to its collection, which includes macaws, tortoises, budgies, ostriches, zebras, capucin, crocodiles, and flamingos.

Snacking turtles at Hope Zoo — Snacking turtles

The day I visited, Hope Zoo was crawling with school children all smartly dressed in their uniforms. I doubt they were older than 10 or 11 years.

Students visiting Hope Zoo — Hope Zoo, a popular destination for students

Exiting Hope Zoo.

Animals at the zoo are kept in enclosures that are surrounded by wire mesh and tropical foliage that gives a natural feel to the environment. But I had to be creative in taking photos so the mesh wasn’t too obvious.

The zoo offers a petting area, group tours and venue rentals.

Hope Zoo Jamaica Particulars

Address: Old Hope Road, Kingston
Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Sunday; 10:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. on public holidays
**It’s advisable to go early, say as the zoo opens, or wait until mid-afternoon when the sun cools to get a better chance of seeing the animals.

Current Entrance Fees: $5 (adults); $3 children aged 3-12; free for children under 2
**Prices are expected to increase now that Lucas the lion has arrived

Newcastle Jamaica

Posted on July 4, 2013July 4, 2013 by Marcia Mayne

Newcastle was established by the British as a military center in 1840. It is now used as a training camp for soldiers and recruits of the Jamaica Defence Force (JDF).

The location, in the Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park, was chosen by Major General Sir William Gomm, the lieutenant governor of Jamaica at the time, who noted that yellow fever, a major cause of death among British troops, occurred less frequently in the cool of the mountains. And it does get cool. It’s about 10-15 degrees cooler than in most of the island and there’s sometimes snow and ice in the higher elevations in the winter months.

Newcastle parade square with medals — Parade square at Newcastle

Barracks for soldiers at Newcastle — Red roofed barracks at Newcastle station

Newcastle has a parade ground, named for the major general, barracks, a cemetery, and several buildings. A sentry is usually posted at the entrance and as the main road, from Kingston to points east, goes through the parade ground, you’re likely the company doing their normal activities. One morning, it was recruits being put through their paces, another day, the national netball team was in training.

Life at Newcastle isn’t meant to be easy for recruits and soldiers. I’ve read that back when the British troops used it as a base, they would march the 12 or so miles from Kingston, which is at sea level, 4,000 feet up the winding mountain road – with their gear.

Parade ground at Newcastle — Part of the Sir Wm. Gomm parade square

Vehicles arriving from Kingston enter the square here and pass through the compound to Holywell Park and other points east, like Portland.

Cemetery at Newcastle — Newcastle cemetery with gravestones dating to the 1800s

I plan to return to Newcastle when I can do the climb as I’d love to see more of it and from other angles.

This is my submission to Travel Photo Thursday, which is organized by Nancie at Budget Travelers Sandbox. Be sure to head over and check out more photos from locations around the world.

Category: Jamaica