On this lovely Sunday, I’d like to share two songs from ska and reggae singer, Phyllis Dillon, who made her first recording, Don’t Stay Away, for producer, Duke Reid, in 1967. She was at 19. Dillon did a lot of covers of popular songs from the U.S.
Dillon, who was born in St. Catherine in 1948, moved to New York in 1967 and, for a while, would travel back to Jamaica to record. She ended her recording career in 1971 but resumed it twenty years later, touring Japan, Germany and the UK. In 1998, she returned to the studio with former Duke Reid session guitarist, Lynn Taitt, who had discovered her. She continued to perform until she became ill. Dillon died in New York in 2004. She was 56 years old.
With more than 3,000 square feet of murals and frescos on its ceiling and walls, Kingston’s Holy Trinity Cathedral is, undoubtedly, the most beautiful church in Jamaica and one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean. It covers 12,600 square feet.
Holy Trinity Cathedral
Like a beacon, its 85′ copper dome guides the faithful to its doors. Holy Trinity Cathedral was built in 1911 to replace the original Roman Catholic church that was constructed in 1811 and destroyed by earthquake in 1907.
Holy Trinity Cathedral, Kingston, Jamaica
The new building, of Byzantine architecture, was commissioned in 1908 by the Catholic community and U.S. Bishop John Collins. It was designed and constructed by Walker-Fyche, a Canadian company at a cost of US$150,000. The artwork was created by Jesuit Lay Brother Francis Schroen. It is believed to be one of the largest of his work.
Holy Trinity Cathedral, Kingston, Jamaica
Sadly, the murals were painted over in the 1970s either because they had deteriorated over the years and there were no funds to restore them, or in response to liturgical trends following Vatican II, they were considered a distraction.
Holy Trinity Cathedral, Kingston, Jamaica
Whatever the explanation, the cathedral was in serious disrepair. When restoration began in 2008, it was discovered that the murals had been buried under ten coats of grey paint. Many of the stained glass windows that had been destroyed by hurricane in 1951 had not been replaced, the baldachin had been removed, the ceiling and pews were infested with termites, and the organ – only five of its kind exist in the Caribbean — did not work.
Holy Trinity Cathedral, Kingston, Jamaica
Restoration of Holy Trinity Cathedral begun under the leadership of master restorer Professor Antonio Sanchez-Barriga Fernandez of Spain and a team that included 32 young people from the community. The painstaking work continues.
Holy Trinity Cathedral, Kingston Jamaica
The day I visited, the doors were closed so I walked the grounds taking photos of the exterior. I had started back to the car when someone called and offered to let me in. I gasped when I saw the interior. Though I had seen photos, they didn’t prepare me for the remarkable tableau in front of me. Except for the floor and pews, every surface was decorated. I didn’t know where to start and fumbled the camera several times. My ‘guide,’ one of the trainees, heard my running comments on the beauty of the artwork and invited me to Mass that Sunday so that I could see the cathedral when it is decorated and illuminated. I promised to return.
Holy Trinity Cathedral, Kingston Jamaica
The ceiling and most of the walls have been restored. New stained glass panels featuring Catholic saints and icons like Saint Josephine Bakhita of the Sudan, Saint Martin de Porres of Peru and Pierre Toussaint, a Haitian slave who purchased his freedom and went on to contribute significantly to raising funds for the Old St. Patrick’s Cathedral in New York City, have been installed.
As I was preparing to leave, the current restorer arrived and offered to show me one of the walls that was being worked on. Several layers of paint were still left to be removed.
Holy Trinity Cathedral has welcomed the Pope and is the venue for many official services and funerals. In 2000, the Jamaican Government named Holy Trinity to the register of historic places.
Holy Trinity Cathedral
1 George Headley Drive at North Street
Kingston
876-922-3335
Sunday Mass: 8:30 a.m.
This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.
A few years ago, bird watching was not on my list of vacation activities. But after driving past the sign to Rocklands Bird Sanctuary, my curiosity got the better of me. Rocklands is located about 30 minutes’ drive from Montego Bay going west along the main road towards Reading in a place called Anchovy in the parish of St. James.
I really didn’t know what to expect when we turned off the main road on to a very bumpy drive leading to the sanctuary but I was about to find out. Rocklands Bird Sanctuary was opened in 1962 by Lisa Salmon. Ms. Salmon, who was known as the “Bird Lady,” passed away in 2000. Rocklands is now managed by the husband and wife team of Fritz Beckford, a long time guide, and Claudette, his wife. Fritz has been at Rocklands for more than 20 years now.
When I arrived, he welcomed me to the porch and I sat, uncertain what to do next. A couple from Florida who was there ahead of me, saw my uncertainty and smiled. The husband began telling me about their trip – they had arrived by ship that morning, specifically to visit Rocklands, and were on their way to Mexico. As he talked, his wife added little details to their story. We were still talking when Fritz gave me a small water bottle with a sugar water mixture and told me to hold it in one hand and keep the index finger of my other hand out.
You mean, that’s all I have to do?
Hmm, I don’t know about this, I think to myself.
The birds must have read my mind as within seconds, a hummingbird landed on my finger, zoomed in on the pin-size opening in the water bottle and started drinking. It happened so quickly, I gasped.
Jamaica's Also Great for Birding - Hummingbird at Rockland Bird SanctuaryJamaica's Also Great for Birding - Hummingbird at Rockland Bird Sanctuary
It was that simple. I relaxed, and another bird landed.
Jamaica's Also Great for Birding - Hummingbird at Rockland Bird Sanctuary
It was an unbelievable experience. As the bird landed, I felt my body shift and the tension, which I didn’t realize was there, disappeared. I had no choice but to relax and feel the peace that came over me. I looked at the couple sitting across from me and we all started chuckling.
I don’t remember how long I stayed at Rocklands Bird Sanctuary — I didn’t stay for the guided walk — but I left feeling like my mind had been blown.
Some of the Birds You Can Expect to See at Rocklands Bird Sanctuary
Hummingbird
Bananaquit
Jamaican Mango
Black-faced Grassquit
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Orangequit
Jamaican Woodpecker
Jamaican Parakeet
Getting There
Rocklands Bird Sanctuary is an easy 30 minute drive if you’re staying in the Montego Bay area, about an hour from Negril.
Hours: Monday to Saturday – 10 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.
For more information, call Claudette or Fritz Beckford, 876-952-2009 or 876-871-4759
Cost: US$20
Other Birding Spots/Tours
With some 200 species, more than 20 of which are endemic to the island, bird watching isn’t limited to Rocklands Bird Sanctuary. Here are a few other locations and tours that you can arrange:
December through June are the best months for bird watching as more birds are visible. In the mornings, I wake up to several birds calling in the trees nearby. I am not yet able to identify the calls but there are at least 5 distinct ones.
Have you ever been birdwatching? How many species of birds can you identify?
Since then, I’ve been thinking not only of the trips my mother and I took but of the places I’ve been that she would have enjoyed.
Walt Disney World: Well, I didn’t really go on vacation to Disney. I was there to participate in the Walt Disney World Marathon on behalf of the American Stroke Association. However, I did get a taste of what Disney offers the child in all of us and I know my mom would have lapped it all up. I can see her eyes now twinkling like a school girl’s.
London: When Prince Charles married Lady Diana in 1981, Mama was up at 4:00 a.m. to watch the wedding on television. She would have been tickled to see Buckingham Palace, even if only from the street, and would have loved to see a changing of the guard.
We were so different, Mama and I. Once, when we were visiting family in Boston, someone mentioned a sale at Filene’s Basement and asked if we wanted to go. Thinking I was speaking for us, I said no, only to find out that she wanted to go. She returned with several shopping bags full and her face flush with excitement. I discovered that day that my normally calm and quite proper mother had been energized by the frenzy of finding what she wanted before someone else did. Just hearing about it made me feel exhausted.
Looking back to the day I lost her, I so happy now that remembering her brings smiles rather than tears. And as The Intruders sang, I’ll Always Love My Mama.
I’ll always love my mama
She’s my favourite girl
I’ll always love my mama
She brought me in this world
Hmm, A mother’s love’s so special
It’s something that you can’t describe
It’s the kind of love that stays with you
Until the day you die
(Lyrics by Kenneth Gamble / Leon Huff / Gene McFadden / John Whitehead / Victor Carstarphen)
As is to be expected, there was a wide variety of flowering plants at the Montego Bay Flower Show last weekend. There were several species of orchids, including Broughtonia Sanguinea that is indigenous to Jamaica, the ZZ Plant, cacti, anthurium, bird of paradise, crown of thorns, ginger lily, etc. But it was the hibiscus that had me pull out my camera. They were gorgeous!
I love orchids but they’re very finicky around me so when the flower seller told me the Broughtonia didn’t have to be treated with kid gloves, I felt I had found my orchid match. Here’s the sweet little Broughtonia Sanguinea that I bought. They love indirect sunlight and do well hanging onto the trunks of trees.
Broughtonia Sanguinea
If you love flowers and are going to be on Jamaica’s south coast this month, be sure to check out the Manchester Horticultural Society’s Flower Show, which will be held in Mandeville on May 23rd (Labor Day here).
Later this month, from May 22-26, the Jamaica Horticultural Society is scheduled to participate in the Royal Horticultural Society Chelsea Flower Show in London. If you’re in London, hope you can check it out.
This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.
When I saw the topic for this week’s challenge, I swore out loud. Usually, I delete photos that are unfocused or blurry – why keep them, I think to myself. And with a digital camera, it’s easy and it’s immediate. No waiting until the photo’s printed. There’s no reminder, no evidence of my miscalculation. I searched and found this:
Weekly Photo Challenge: Unfocused - Outside Emancipation Park for the premiere of Marley, the documentary
I am taking part in Hostelbookers 7 Super Shots photo post game that has been making its way around the blogosphere. The premise was to choose seven favorite photos fitting pre-defined categories. Then, nominate other bloggers. Hence, the game of tag ensues. Huge thanks to Mary from The World is a Bookwho tagged me a few weeks ago.
A Photo that… takes my breath away
Without question, Trident Castle took my breath away the first time I saw it, and each time I look at the photos I took, my breath still catches in my throat. This gleaming, white structure seems to just sprout out of the lush Portland vegetation. It’s totally unexpected, totally unusual and totally unique.
My Seven Super Shots – Trident Castle, Portland
A Photo that….makes me dream
Looking at this photo makes me dream of reaching not just the summit of the Blue Mountains but maybe even Mount Kilimanjaro. One of these days.
My Seven Super Shots, Blue Mountains, Portland/St. Thomas
A Photo that….makes me think
I’m used to seeing ships here but when I saw the Mariner of the Seas in Falmouth, I did a double take. Falmouth is a small town and the ship almost dwarfs it.
More than anything, though, is the striking contrast between this modern ship and the old town, which was founded in 1769 and had piped water before New York City. To the left is the court house, which was built originally around 1815. Several buildings skirting the harbor date to the 17th and 18th centuries. It made me think of the ships that used to dock in Falmouth. Back then, they brought Africans to the island as slaves, and left with sugar and rum.
My Travel Seven Super Shots, Falmouth
A Photo that….makes me laugh or smile
My nephew, Malcolm, was visiting from London with his parents for a few weeks. My sister, a friend and I decided to take him for a swim in the Wag Water River. All the way there, Malcolm kept saying, “I’m not going into the water. I am not going into the water. I’m not going into the water.”
In case you missed it, that’s Malcolm in the water, enjoying himself, like he always swam in a river. When we were ready, he didn’t want to leave. I chuckle every time I see the photos.
My Seven Super Shots, Wag Water River, St. Mary
A Photo that….makes my mouth water
I never tire of eating fish. My preference is red snapper, which I love fried crispy, escoveitch, or steamed, as it is here. With chunks of potato, carrots, okra and chocho (chayote), it’s a meal in itself. Sometimes, I get bammy (a flat bread made from cassava — the round thing on the left) steamed with the fish. Ahh, delicious!
My Seven Super Shots, Little Ochie
A Photo that….tells a story
As I said, my favorite meal is one of fish or seafood, though I must admit, I rarely think of the work that goes into bringing them to my table. Believe me, it’s difficult, backbreaking and can be deadly.
I chatted with a few of these guys before they set out and I was surprised by how young they were – none was older than 25 – and how long it takes them to return — sometimes up to a week when they go far as South America. Their boats looked as if they could hardly withstand a good shower of rain. I promised myself never to haggle with a fisherman again.
My Seven Super Shots, Little Ochie
A Photo that….I’m most proud of (aka my worthy of National Geographic shot)
This has happened a few times. I take a photo on the fly, then look at it later and realize it came out really well. That’s the case here. I’m really proud of this shot.
My Travel Seven Super Shots – Negril
This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.
I’ll post the 5 bloggers I’m tagging shortly. Till then, enjoy!
The Bob Marley Museum was not on my list of places to see on this visit to Kingston but when my other plans fell through, it sounded like the perfect backup.
Entrance to the museum
Located at 56 Hope Road in a 19th-century colonial house that was the home the Reggae superstar, Rastaman and activist was living in when he died in 1981, it was converted into a museum by his widow, Rita Marley, and opened to the public on May 11, 1986.
On the main floor of the Bob Marley Museum is a working recording studio, memorabilia from Marley’s performances, and numerous awards. Included as well are costumes that were worn by the I Threes — Rita Marley, Judy Mowatt and Marcia Griffiths — his backup singers from 1974, and an image of Bob.
Bob Marley’s former home
On the second floor, Bob’s bedroom with his guitar, looks like he’d be returning any minute to get it. Next to the room is a kitchen, family room turned portrait gallery and a replica of the record shop the Wailers owned. Included is the bicycle they used to deliver their records. The second floor also has memorabilia from Bob’s trips to Africa, including his performance at Zimbabwe’s independence celebration.
The tour includes a visit to the room that gunmen sprayed with bullets in 1976 in an attempt on the singer’s life. Rita, Bob and their manager were wounded. Unfortunately, the bullet that hit Bob in the arm could not be removed. The attack was widely believed to be politically motivated.
Bob had planned a free concert, Smile Jamaica, and been outspoken about the glaring inequities within the Jamaican society. In the tense and violent run-up to the 1976 general election, his comments were perceived to be supportive of the ruling PNP of Michael Manley and against the JLP’s Edward Seaga, had allegedly been receiving backing from the US and the CIA. Graffiti at the time labeled Seaga “CIA-ga.”
Mural with images of Bob and the Wailers
Two days following the shooting, Bob performed, as scheduled, at the Smile Jamaica concert which was held at National Heroes Park. However, after the concert, he left the island for England where he spent 18 months. Now the walls of the room are plastered with newspaper accounts of the incident except for a few areas where bullets pierced the brick.
Sign at the cafe – Friendship keeps your heart full
The museum also features Bob’s original mixing board. The tour ends with a 20-minute film, with the pulsating rhythms and unforgettable lyrics playing in the background, and featuring footage of interviews with the reggae artist.
In the courtyard of the Bob Marley Museum are several murals, one with images of Bob and his sons — the daughters’ are to be drawn. Bob had 12 children. Another mural is dedicated to Haile Selassie. Near the entrance, the wall is covered by photos of Bob, the Wailers and the I-Threes. A statue of the singer, in an iconic pose – right fist clenched, reaching above his head, his left clasping his guitar – stands near the entrance to the museum. There’s also a restaurant, Legend Cafe. In the back, a fish pond and a small marijuana plant.
Marijuana plant
Planning Your Visit to the Bob Marley Museum
Bob Marley Museum, 56 Hope Road, Kingston, 927-5152
Hours: Monday – Saturday, 9:30 first tour, 4:00 last tour
Tour lasts an hour
Cost: US$25 (Non-Resident Adults); US$12 (Non-Resident Children aged 4-12); J$500 (Residents, with proper ID)
No photography is not allowed during the tour however, photos can be taken after.
When I saw this little boy walking with a bucket almost twice his size to the nearby river, I was puzzled. Why was he going to the river, I wondered. Isn’t he too small to be going into the water by himself? These questions popped into my head as I watched. Other people were around – adults and children – some of them in the river bathing and playing around, but none of them his size. No one seemed to notice.
Just as I walked past, he waded into the shallow part and plunged the bucket into the water. I kept walking but I kept looking back to see what he was going to do.
Weekly Photo Challenge: Together
As he struggled with the now full bucket, water splashed from the sides and ran down his foot. Finally, he reached the horse, his father’s, I was told. He gently set it down and the horse dunked its head into the bucket. He waited patiently for the horse to finish. When he felt it’d had enough, he picked up the bucket and splashed the rest of the water on the animal then walked back in the same direction from which he had appeared. I smiled.
