Hiking Jamaica’s Blue Mountain

Jamaica’s Blue Mountain range, which spreads northeast across the island from the parish of St. Andrew to St. Thomas, Portland and St. Mary, is better known for the world-class coffee it produces than its hiking trails. However, there are 12 trails of varying lengths and levels of difficulty though not all of them go to the top.

I’m not a hiker and prior to a few days ago, the only way I’d been up a mountain was by car. But the memory of a spectacular Blue Mountain sunrise that I’d seen a few years ago on an episode of Globe Trekker, and the thought of viewing the island from its highest point (7,402 feet), had me seek out a guide to help me make the climb.

The trail we decided on would take us a distance of 6 miles, rising from approximately 4,000 feet (the area around Penlyne Castle/Whitfield Hall) to 7,402 feet, and is estimated to take 4 hours up, 3 down. We planned a 2:00 a.m. departure so that we would get to the peak by sunrise.

Blue Mountain trail
Hiking the Blue Mountain

Except for lights in the direction of Kingston, the trail is pitch black at that time so we equipped ourselves with flashlights; and to provide fuel for the hike, energy bars and water. Since the temperature on the mountain can be up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit lower than in Kingston, from where I left, I dressed warmly in sweat pants, a long sleeved running shirt made of material that wicks away moisture, two t-shirts, woolen socks and hiking shoes.

I began to feel the effects of the mountain air as soon as we set out. My breathing felt shallow and for a second, I wondered if that would derail me before I even began. It did slow me at first, but thankfully, I adjusted.

Hiking Jamaica's Blue Mountain
Canopy over the trail

For the first 20 minutes or so, the trail seemed pretty easy. Then we reached Jacob’s Ladder, a series of switchbacks that take you up the one of the series of mountains that make up the range. I’m not sure how long it took as I stopped often to catch my breath or take a sip of water. This was the most challenging part of the hike.

After clearing Jacob’s Ladder, we arrived at Portland Gap, a part of the trail which lies between Mossman’s Peak (6,653 ft/2,028 m) and the Blue Mountain Peak (7,402 ft/2,246 m). Looking at it from the ground the day after, it appears almost flat.  A ranger’s station, considered the halfway point of the climb, is also located in a lush clearing in the Gap.

Facilities for camping are also located there, however, my guide said they aren’t well maintained. Here is also where hikers are supposed to check in and pay a user fee (about US$1) but there was no one there to collect it at that hour. We refilled our water bottles and got back on the trail. For anyone considering this particular trail, this is the only place to get water.

As we were leaving, I noticed that the skies were no longer dark. When I asked, Ipal said we had another 3 1/2 miles to the peak! At the rate we were going, I knew we wouldn’t make it before the sun rose even if we hurried but I decided to keep going.

Sunrise caught us just as we arrived at the second lookout point, about two hour’s walk from the peak. I was very disappointed. I hate to give up but my goal was to see the sun rise on the Blue Mountain. That I had done. I promised myself to return another time, stronger and fitter, so I could reach the top in time to greet the sun.

Hiking Jamaica's Blue Mountain
Blue Mountain sunrise
View of Jamaica's Blue Mountain in the morning sunrise
Sunrise on the mountain

As the sun illuminated the trail before us on the return, I was surprised by what I had missed in the dark. Ferns of all varieties were everywhere. Trees towered above us, sometimes forming a canopy that almost blocked out the light. Moss covered rocks along the trail and hung from branches and trees, giving them an ethereal feel. Everywhere was lush and green, a wall of mountains on one side.

The Blue Mountain range is home to about 200 species of birds and the swallowtail butterfly, the second largest in the world. I didn’t get to see him but I heard and saw the hummingbird and some of the 500 species of flowering plants, half of which are endemic to Jamaica.

Hiking Jamaica's Blue Mountain
Slowly rising sun

What to Wear

Comfortable clothes – sweatshirts, pants, woolen socks, waterproof shoes. A good part of the trail is wet — the Blue Mountain range gets between 2-300 inches or rain annually — parts are rocky, and in some places, it is wide enough for just one person.

Carry a small backpack with water and snacks – energy bars and potassium-rich foods like bananas, chocolate, dried fruits and water.

A flashlight is a must, whether you’re going for a sunrise or sunset hike.

If you need one, take a walking stick. I found one useful especially on the return.

Where to Stay: There are several guest houses and hostels in the Penlyne Castle/Whitfield Hall area. I stayed at Jah B’s place (876) 377-5206. There’s also Whitfield Hall and Wildflower Lodge within walking distance.

Best time to go: Between December and April, the dry season.

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

Falmouth’s Georgian Buildings, I

Falmouth, Trelawny, has the largest collection of intact Georgian buildings in the Caribbean. Several have been restored by the Falmouth Heritage Renewal.

On a recent visit, I took photos of some of these beautiful, old buildings.

Falmouth Baptist Manse
Falmouth Baptist Manse, now home of Falmouth Heritage Renewal

Built in 1798 for the Athol Union Masonic Lodge of the Scottish Constitution, it was the first masonic temple in Jamaica. In 1834, it was sold to the Baptist Missionary because of debts incurred during its construction.

It is believed that the Baptist Missionary and Abolitionist, William Knibb (1803-45) lived here in the 1830s with his family. Much later (1951-75), the Manse became the William Knibb High School. It was restored recently by the William Knibb Trust and is now home to Falmouth Heritage Renewal.

St. Peter's Anglican Church, Falmouth
St. Peter’s Anglican Church, Falmouth

The Falmouth Parish Church of St. Peter the Apostle, was built circa 1796 on land that was given by Edward Barrett of Cinnamon Hill. As I wrote in a previous post, the Barretts were wealthy sugar family who owned 84,000 acres stretching from Montego Bay to Falmouth.

St. Peter's Anglican Church, Falmouth
St. Peter’s Anglican Church, Falmouth

Stained glass above the altar.

St. Peter's Anglican Church, Falmouth
St. Peter’s Anglican Church, Falmouth

A few yards from the church is a small cemetery with headstones dating to the 1700s. One of the members told us that there are also graves beneath the church — I wasn’t interested in seeing whether it was true. As we walked around we couldn’t miss this goat. He was sitting under the shade of a nearby tree, looking as if he belonged.

The Falmouth Heritage Renewal offers walking tours of Falmouth Heritage District from Mondays to Fridays at 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. The tours start at the Baptist Manse, 9 Market Street, and last about 75 minutes. There is no charge, however, donations are welcomed.

 

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

 

Greenwood Great House

Greenwood Great House has the best collection of Victorian-era furniture, musical instruments, and china in Jamaica, perhaps even the Caribbean.

Part of the 84,000 acre estate that belonged to the wealthy Barrett family whose relatives were the British poet, Elizabeth Barrett Browning and her aunt, Sarah Moulton Barrett, who was also called Pinkie. Moulton Barrett was born in Jamaica and was immortalized in the painting, Pinkie, by the British artist, Thomas Lawrence. Both Pinkie and Thomas Gainesborough’s Blue Boy, hang in the Huntington Gallery in San Marino, California. A copy of Pinkie’s painting can also be seen at Greenwood.

Not only does Greenwood Great House have the best collection of antiques, it is one of a few great houses that were never burned during the 1831 slave revolt that destroyed most of Jamaica’s great houses. It has also been occupied continuously since it was built in 1790 by Richard Barrett, a member of the family and a former speaker of the Jamaican House of Assembly.

Greenwood Great House - china cabinet
China cabinet
Greenwood Great House - Step ladder
Step ladder
Greenwood Great House - Step ladder unfolding
Step ladder unfolding
Greenwood Great House - Step ladder chair
Step ladder chair
Greenwood Great House - antique furniture
Antique furniture
Greenwood Great House - screw-press
Screw press

Household linens were put between two pieces of flat board. The top piece was then lowered all the way down by a screw, that way flattening and smoothening the clothes.

Greenwood Great House - chamber pot
Chamber pot
Greenwood Great House - bed
Antique bed
Greenwood Great House - Wind organ
Wind organ
Greenwood Great House - Rosewood inlaid piano
Rosewood inlaid piano

This rosewood inlaid piano was built by John Broadwood, who also made pianos for Beethoven.

Greenwood Greathouse is located in the community of Greenwood, St. James. It is 15 miles from Montego Bay and 7 miles from Falmouth. Open daily from 9-6 p.m. Guided tours cost US$20 per person.

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

Travel Photo Thursday: Negril

Negril is located on the western tip of Jamaica. It got its name from the Spanish word, Negrillo, which either refers to the black cliffs south of this small community or the black eels that used to be found along its coast.

Whenever I go to this world famous spot, I always think of my first visit. I was 10 or 11 years old at the time. All Negril was then was a main road, the beach, a couple places to stay and a few houses. I wish I had photos.

Thirty-plus years later, Negril is a busy resort area that plays host annually to more visitors than the estimated 3,000 people who live there year round. It is this year’s Spring Break destination. Its well known white-sand beach is lined with all inclusive hotels, guest houses and cottages, and its main road — the only way in — now a boulevard that bears a famous name: Norman Manley, national hero and leader.

I took these photos on my most recent trip.

Negril - early morning on the beach
Negril - Early morning beach scene
Negril - beach scene
Negril - Beach scene
Negril beach sign
Negril - Beach sign

There might be no nude bathing allowed but I did see a few nude sunbathers.

Negril Starfish
Negril - Starfish

This starfish was washed ashore just as I walked by.

Negril beach scene
Negril - Beach scene
Negril, Riu Hotel
Negril - Riu Hotel
Negril - waiting for the sunset at Rick's Cafe
Negril - Waiting for the sunset, Rick's Cafe

Rick’s Cafe has been a fixture in Negril for about 30 years. Crowds gather to watch the sunset with the same enthusiasm as they do in Times Square to watch the ball drop on New Years Eve, except there are fewer people.

Negril sunset
Negril sunset

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

Travel Photo Thursday: Sunrise, Sunset

Golden Mile Sunrise, Durban
Golden Mile Sunrise, Durban
Sunrise over the Atlantic
Sunrise over the Atlantic
Harlem Sunset
Harlem Sunset
Paris Sunset
Paris Sunset
Zimbabwe Sunset
Zimbabwe Sunset
Zimbabwe Sunset
Zimbabwe Sunset

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

Travel Photo Thursday: Dig In!

As I looked for photos for today’s Travel Photo Thursday, I was surprised by all the photos I’ve taken of food. But I shouldn’t have been.

I love looking at food, the way it’s presented, the interplay of colors and textures, even the shape of the plate it’s presented on. As I look at these photos, I recall something Solange, my almost-mother-in-law, used to say, “La nourriture doit plaire a l’oeil avant de plaire a l’estomac (Food must please the eyes before it pleases the stomach).”

So dig in and enjoy!

Breakfast (Jamaica)
Ackee and Salt fish Breakfast (New Jersey/Jamaica)

I took this photo of a brunch I had at Max, a little Jamaican restaurant in Hackensack, NJ. That’s ackee and salt fish, Jamaica’s national dish. It’s also been listed on the Top 10 National Dishes by National Geographic. Here it’s accompanied by fried breadfruit, avocado, and dumplings.

Lunch (New York)
Crab Salad (New York)
Lunch (New York)
Pulled Pork Sandwich (New York)
Tapas (London)
Tapas (London)
Fish and Chips (London)
Fish and Chips (London)

British comfort food – Fish and Chips.

Steak and Fries (France)
Steak and Fries (France)

I never would have expected to have steak and fries in Paris but my friend Karen said the restaurant had been highly recommended. I’m not big on steak so I was a little hesitant but this did not disappoint.

Steak & Ale Pie (Lacock, UK)
Steak & Ale Pie (Lacock, UK)

I’m always up for trying something new and this Steak & Ale pie sounded interesting. It was delicious. I’m glad I tried it.

Mexican Paella (New York)
Mexican Paella (New York)

Mexico puts its own spin on the paella.

Dessert (New York)
Dessert (New York)

My favorite dessert: sorbet and fresh fruit.

Mango Sorbet (New York)
Mango Sorbet (New York)
Fresh Fruit
Fresh Fruit

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website!

Travel Photo Thursday: Jamaican Orchids

I don’t have a green thumb but I love flowers, especially orchids. Unfortunately, they don’t seem to love me. Each time I buy one, I think it will be different, it will last more than a few months.  Each time, I’ve been wrong.

Now that I’m in Jamaica, where orchids are plenty and grow wild, I’m tempted but I’m gun shy. So for now, I’m satisfied to take photos of the ones I see.

Jamaican orchid
Jamaican orchid

Over 30,000 species of orchids can be found worldwide. Approximately 230 are found in Jamaica. Of that number, about 70 are endemic to the island.

The main threat to Jamaican orchids is from the destruction of their habitats caused by land clearing for housing, hotel and agricultural development, bauxite and/or limestone mining, harvesting of forest products for timber, fuel wood, fish pots, yam sticks and fence posts.

Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid

The second greatest threat to the species is believed to be collection by orchid enthusiasts for local and international trade. The government has enacted legislation to protect their habitats and regulate the orchid trade. Sanctuaries have also been established to relocate orchids that are found in areas under threat.

These orchids are from the gardens of friends and family.

Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid
Jamaican Orchid

This one is known locally as Poor Man’s Orchid. It sure looks like it could be.

Poor Man's Orchid
Poor Man's Orchid

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website!

Travel Photo Thursday: Trident Castle

Round one of the bends on the road that meanders into Port Antonio, a compact seaside town on Jamaica’s northeastern coast, and come face to face with Trident Castle, an imposing white structure that makes you feel as if the turn you just took had deposited you in some European country, not a Caribbean island.

Trident Castle sits at the mouth of Turtle Crawle Harbor on a promontory known as Pegg Point. The secluded bay was used to “corral” turtles in pens after their capture. It also provided protection to buccaneer (pirate) ships that used to ply the region’s waters during the 16th and 18th centuries.

Trident Castle, Portland, Jamaica
Trident Castle, Portland, Jamaica

Now owned by Jamaican billionaire, Michael Lee Chin, Trident Castle was designed and built as a private residence for German Baroness Elizabeth Siglindy Stephan von Thyssen by hotelier and architect, Earl Levy. It boasts 8 bedrooms with full baths, a ballroom, banquet hall, two living rooms, terraces, courtyard, Romanesque pool, private chapel and helicopter pad and sits on 7 acres. A chapel, which is located in the middle of a park, can seat up to 25 people.  Construction began in 1979 and lasted about ten years.

Trident Castle operates as a rental property for the well heeled and can accommodate up to 16 guests whether for weddings or other special occasions. It offers an array of amenities and activities including a private beach, two tennis courts, croquet, snorkeling, water sports and deep-sea fishing.

Celebrities such as the late John F. Kennedy, Jr., Whoopi Goldberg, Denzel Washington, Johnny Depp, Glenn Close, Kevin Kline, Kate Moss and Tom Cruise have been guests of Trident Castle.

Rental rates start at about $7,500 per night during winter season, and $4,500 per night during summer season. During the winter season, a minimum of 7-night stay required, 5 during summer. Rates include food, bar, gratuities, full use of the Trident Hotel nearby and, for guests staying 7 days, ground transfers.

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website!

Sunset at Rick’s Cafe, Negril, Jamaica

Rick’s Cafe, in Negril, is one of the best places to watch the sun set in Jamaica. It’s an event I always look forward to see and I’ve done so on many occasions. Each time, the colors with which the sun paints the clouds as it falls behind the horizon look different, deeper and more intense – purple, orange, blue.

Boats getting into position, waiting for the sun to set
Boats getting into position, waiting for the sun to set
Sunset at Rick's Cafe
Sunset at Rick’s Cafe 
Sunset at Rick's Cafe
Sunset at Rick’s Cafe
Sunset at Rick's Cafe
Sunset at Rick’s Cafe
Sunset at Rick's Cafe
Sunset at Rick’s Cafe

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website!

Travel Photo Thursday: New York Christmas Scenes

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas in New York.

Here are a few scenes from Bryant Park. I’ve always loved Bryant Park – it’s small and intimate, and very accessible especially for people who work in midtown. People stop by during lunchtime, sit at the tables and read or take advantage of their free wifi. In the summer, there are movies. In winter, ice skating.

Skating in Bryant Park
Skating in Bryant Park
Bryant Park Christmas Tree
Bryant Park Christmas Tree
Met Christmas Tree
The Metropolitan Museum's Christmas Tree

Last Saturday, as I traveled around the city, I couldn’t help noticing that almost every guy of a certain age (and some girls) was dressed like Santa. Cars honked and people waved when they saw them. But these Santa guys and gals weren’t going to dole out gifts, they were part of the Santas-only pub crawl – a flash mob type event that brings together people dressed as Santas, elves, etc. They go from bar to bar, drinking and generally having a good time. Great way to get “into the spirit,” isn’t it?

Going to the Santa Pub Crawl
Going to the Santa Pub Crawl

This Santa agreed to let me take a photo but pulled on his mask just as I raised the camera.

Santa Pub Crawl
Santa Pub Crawl

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website!