Reaching for the sky.
Open skies.

Above the sky.

Pie in the sky. Blue skies.

The sky’s the limit.

What would we do without the sky?
Table Mountain was not on our itinerary, not for that gorgeous day. After an emotionally charged visit to Robben Island, all we wanted to do was have a meal and take a nap.
But Ian, our guide, insisted. The weather was perfect, he said. There was no guarantee we’d have another one, best to take advantage. If the clouds came in, visibility on Table Mountain would be reduced. I know this mountain, he said. You only have five days, why wait for tomorrow when you could see something else? We’re so close.
We insisted. We huddled among ourselves. We were adamant. We didn’t want a tour guide to commandeer our vacation. After all, for more than a week, we’d had people telling us what to do and when do it. And after Cape Town, we’d have another tour guide shepherding us around. Independent people, we wanted our freedom or a least a little latitude.
I can’t remember now what Ian said that clinched it. But I’m glad he didn’t give up. It was the best decision we made that day. As it turned out, it rained all day the next day and for several days after that, Table mountain looked as if a crisp white tablecloth had been spread over it.
From that moment, we never objected to anything Ian recommended.
Jerk is both a style of cooking and the mix of spices used to make jerk. It is a very popular way of cooking in Jamaica that has grown from chicken to pork, fish, sausage, tofu, lobster, etc.
My earliest memories of jerk was of a man who used to sell jerk chicken door-to-door on his
bicycle. Back then, making jerk was an elaborate affair – it was always slow-cooked in the open over pimento wood, which gave it a distinct flavor. Jerk all but disappeared in the 1960s but it saw a huge resurgence in the 1970s when some enterprising chefs duplicated the sauce and made it available in bottles and packages.
Thanks to Jamaicans abroad who wish for a taste of home, jerk has gone international.
At home, especially in tourist areas, jerk is big business but, as you’d expect, it’s been watered down considerably to accommodate those who are averse to the peppery jerk taste. (Earlier this year, I wrote a post, Jamaica-In Search of the Real Jerk about finding authentic jerk in Jamaica.)
Peppery or not, jerk is still a delicious way to cook. You can bet it’ll be on the menu this weekend at many July 4th barbecues.
Here are two recipes to try.
Stir-Fried Caribbean Vegetables with Jerk Tofu
I discovered this recipe a few years ago. It is one of my favorites and disappears pretty quickly whenever I make it.
Ingredients
1 tbsp Walkerswood Jerk Marinade or Jerk Seasoning (you can substitute any jerk seasoning from the supermarket or the one below)
2 tbsp palm, peanut, sesame or soy oil
500 g/1lb. firm tofu, cubed
1 onion, sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Oil, for frying
For the vegetables:
About 1kg/2 lbs. total of any combination of carrots, zucchini, cauliflower, green cabbage, pak choy, sweet peppers and/or broccoli
Directions
Mix together jerk seasoning and oil, add to tofu and marinate for at least an hour (preferably overnight).
Heat the frying oil in a wok or suitable skillet. Deep fry the tofu cubes for 3-5 minutes and reserve. Pour out most of the oil and stir-fry the onion and garlic; then begin to add the other vegetables, hardest first. Cook very lightly; then add the tofu and stir in gently until hot. Serve immediately.
Serves 4. Preparation time: 15 minutes plus 1 hour (or up to overnight) marinating plus 10 minutes cooking.
Jerk Tofu recipe courtesy of Walkerswood Caribbean Kitchen by Virginia Burke.
David’s Jerk Chicken
Ingredients
½ cup Jerk Rub*
1 onion, finely chopped
1 Scotch bonnet pepper, minced
Leaves from 1 fresh thyme sprig, minced
2 scallions, including green parts, finely chopped
1 chicken (3 to 3 ½ pounds), cut into serving pieces
Directions
Mix together the jerk seasoning, onion, pepper, thyme and scallions. Rub the chicken well all over with the jerk rub. Cover and refrigerate for 4-6 hours.
Prepare a low fire in a charcoal grill using a combination of charcoal and pimento wood. (If you don’t have pimento wood, substitute applewood or hickory, or build a fire with just charcoal. If you’re using a gas grill, preheat it to 225° to 250°F.
Place the chicken on the grill and cook, covered, for 1 to 1 ½ hours, turning every 10 minutes or so. When it’s done, the chicken will take on a very dark color, the juices will run clear when the meat is pierced, and the internal temperature will have reached 160°F.
*Jerk Chicken Rub
1 onion, finely chopped
½ cup finely chopped scallions, including green parts
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground Jamaican allspice
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
4-6 Scotch Bonnet or habanero peppers, minced fine
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Using a mortar and pestle or a food processor, combine all the ingredients and grind to a paste. Store leftover paste in the refrigerator in a tightly closed jar for about 1 month.
Makes about 1 cup; enough for 406 pounds of meat
Jerk Chicken recipe courtesy of Jerk from Jamaica by Helen Willinsky
Enjoy your 4th!
“Harlem’s Backyard Gems is my entry into TBEX Blog Carnival Contest sponsored by Choice Hotels International Services Corp.”
When I decided to move to New York in the late 90s, the only place I wanted to live in was Harlem. I imagined myself in a brownstones like the one of a family friend I visited in the 1970s that became symbolic of this historic neighborhood. With sweeping steps that led to beautifully hand-crafted double doors it seemed to welcome everyone in.
But brownstones are just one of many things Harlem is known for. Formerly a Dutch village, Harlem got its name from the city of Haarlem in the Netherlands. It was also once the second largest Jewish community in the U.S. and home to a large population of Italians.
A tour bus gives visitors the option to disembark and re-embark at designated
points, makes it easy to cover a lot of territory while on vacation. With knowledgeable guides and pre-recorded information available in several different languages, taking a tour bus also offers a quick overview of points of interest along the way.
But is a tour bus tour right for you? It depends.
If walking around a new city makes you nervous or uncomfortable, if a semi-structured tour is more your speed or if you don’t have much time, then a tour bus tour is your best option.
If you’re like me, however, and you like to be on your own schedule, wander around, stop, take photos, talk to people, don’t mind getting lost, etc., then a tour bus tour might not be your cup of tea.
I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve taken a tour bus tour. When I’m in a new place, I want to explore, preferably on foot. So a tour bus, for me, is like an expensive cab ride.
But after walking for what seemed like hours in both London and Paris, I decided to hop on a bus so I could cover a bit more territory. In London, the tour bus tour I selected was led by a pleasant and knowledgeable guide who had us laughing at his sometimes corny anecdotes. However, not even that kept me on longer than the first leg. The same thing happened in Paris.
A tour bus is a great way to get the lay of the land. But walking allows you more freedom to see the sights, interact with people and adds new layers to the memories you’re creating.
A few of my missed tour bus shots.
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Okay, so eating a croissant wasn’t really on my list of things to do in Paris. But I had envisioned a much different trip than the one I actually had.
In the trip I imagined, I’d spend a week in Paris, visit a few friends and all the must-see spots, the Champs-Élysées, the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, etc., then make my way to Bordeaux, the wine region, and Saint-Émilion in search of the Château Grand Mayne. (About 10 years ago, I discovered a Bordeaux with my name on it. I was so excited, I bought a case! Visiting a place that had my name was high on my list.)
At some point, I’d travel to Lons le Saunier, to visit ma petite soeur, Murielle, and her family. I was looking forward so much to seeing the French countryside that I’d sit at my desk when I was supposed to be working and daydream about it.
But life (aka work) intervened. Instead of spending two weeks in France and two in London, I had two weeks between London and Paris. I could manage only three days in Paris. It wouldn’t be enough — I like to spend my time, slowly peeling back layers and discovering a new place — but it’d have to do.
Don’t get me wrong, I loved every minute of my three days but it went by so fast, if I didn’t have photos, I’d think it had been a dream.
I’ve been reflecting on the dream and all the things I didn’t get a chance to see or do in Paris, and I made a list:
The trip I took was an appetizer. I’m ready now for a more leisurely and elaborate feast with ten (or more) reasons to return to Paris.
What do you do with your leftover coins?
Whenever I’m go on vacation, I keep some leftover coins for my collection and spend the rest at the airport duty free shops. But no matter how hard I try, I usually find a few more when I unpack.
Since currency exchanges and banks don’t buy back leftover coins, I usually add them to my collection. But that’s becoming quite sizable and very heavy.
On my last trip, I was pleased to hear Virgin Airlines’ appeal for leftover coins — but I didn’t have any, or so I thought. (I found a few Euros when I got home.)
Later, I did some research and discovered UNICEF’s Change for Good® program.
Change for Good is a partnership between UNICEF and the international airline industry. It was established in 1987 to help UNICEF’s mission to reduce the number of preventable childhood deaths.
Change for Good allows passengers on nine participating airlines to donate their leftover U.S. and foreign currencies to flight attendants on board and at Admirals Clubs and Flagship Lounges worldwide.
The airlines participating are Aer Lingus, Alitalia, All Nippon Airways (ANA), American Airlines, Asiana Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Japan Airlines (JAL) and QANTAS.
Virgin Airlines and British Airways have their own programs.
If you find yourself with leftover coins when you get home, don’t panic — you can still donate. Send them to:
U.S. Fund for UNICEF
Attn: Change for Good
125 Maiden Lane
According to UNICEF’s website, because donations of leftover foreign coins are processed in bulk by a third party vendor, the acknowledgement you’ll receive for your donation will, unfortunately, not specify the amount of your gift. But you shouldn’t let that dissuade you from donating.
The global Change for Good program has generated over 90 million dollars for UNICEF. That’s no small change!
I thought for today’s Soulful Sundays, I’d pick a song that celebrated fathers. The Temptations’ Papa Was a Rolling Stone was the first one that came to mind though it’s a celebration of one type of father.
June’s a difficult month, not only because of Fathers’ Day but because the 6th is the day my father was born.
When I was growing up, my father and I had a sometime stormy relationship but either I mellowed as I got older or he began to see my point of view. Either way, we became very good friends. I could talk to him about anything. Whenever I went home, the first thing he’d do is fix us drinks and we’d sit on the verandah and talk for hours. There’d be much laughter as well.
My dad loved cricket and politics and would read the newspaper from cover to cover everyday. His next big love was his lodge. I used to try every trick I could think of to get him to tell me about the lodge but he’d never say a word.
The Sunday Dad was taken to the hospital, my sister called. I felt certain he’d recover. After all, he’d assured me several months earlier when he’d had a mild stroke that he wasn’t “going anywhere.” I believed him. A few days later, he couldn’t see. And I knew.
I rushed home and went to the hospital. I still felt he’d make it. But he passed away with us at his bedside. Everyone said he had waited for me. I’d like to think he did.
Here’s The Temptations’ Papa Was a Rolling Stone
Happy Fathers’ Day!
After walking around Paris for most of the day taking in one must-see attraction after another, I was excited to see the Eiffel Tower straight ahead, looking as if it had sprouted from the ground.
The images I had in my head from movies and television and photographs dwarfed in comparison to the real thing. It was impressive!
Up close, the Eiffel Tower, with its intricate lattice work, is a marvel of modern engineering.
At 1,063 feet, it is among the tallest structures in the world. Its base measures approximately 330 feet. Completed in 1889, the Tower was named after Gustave Eiffel, the engineer who designed it.
Throngs of people milled around the base, hundreds more waited on one of two lines – one to climb the stairs to the first and second floors, the other, the elevator to the second floor and the top.
I sat for a while, debating whether I’d go up. Once I decided, there was no question: I’d take the stairs — not the elevator with the longer line. It would be a good 45 minutes to an hour before I reached the ticket counter.
I’d say the first 100 steps were a breeze compared to the next 200. I had to stop several times to catch my breath. But it also gave me a chance to take some photos.
When I made it to the first floor 347 steps later, I felt very proud. I headed straight for the first table to rest.
When I reached the first floor, I couldn’t imagine going to the next level. But after getting a bottle of water from the concession stand and feeling my heart had returned to beating normally, I realized it was time to go. Of course, seeing other people doing it, didn’t help either.
Reaching the 500th step of the 674 steps to the second floor. I knew when I returned home there’d be some who wouldn’t believe I’d done it, so I brought proof.
The second floor was crawling with people – those who had taken the elevator up, those returning from the top and others, like me, who climbed up. The second floor is also the location of a second ticket window where those who wanted to, could buy tickets to the elevator to the top and the souvenir shop. It’s also where the second, more expensive, restaurant is to be found.
Looking towards the top from the second floor.
I was still undecided whether to go up. The lines were long and I needed to join the line again to get another ticket. I mulled it over as I took more photos of the beautiful scenery below. (I just noticed the shadow of the Eiffel in this one.)
I’m not sure how long I hung around snapping photo after photo before I joined the ticket line.
It was another 30-45 minutes before I got up to the window, maybe 20 more minutes to get on the elevator and a few minutes to get to the top.
As we began our ascent, I looked down — we weren’t going very fast — and my stomach lurched. It settled after a few seconds, and I watched as people and things on the ground became increasingly smaller.
Exiting the elevator, I was surprised and delighted to see this little flag of Jamaica on the Eiffel Tower!!
The view at the top is breathtaking. Unfortunately, since it’s enclosed, I had to take photos from the windows. They all picked up the film of dirt on the window.
It was after 8 p.m. and I wanted to be on the ground to see the lights that begin at 9 p.m. It started as I was descending and ended before I got to the ground. I wanted to wait for the next one at 10 p.m. but I was hungry and tired and still had a 30 minute metro ride back to the hotel.
I had spent more than 5 hours there but it was well worth it. I said my goodbye to the Eiffel Tower around 9:30 p.m.
Climbing the steps to the second floor of the Eiffel Tower then taking the elevator to the top was the highlight of my three days in Paris.
Visiting the Eiffel Tower
Hours: The Eiffel Tower is open everyday from 9:30 – midnight but check the website for exact times in the summer months.
Tickets: Stairs to the 2nd Floor: €4,70 – If you want to climb the stairs to the second floor, like I did, you’ll have to purchase your ticket when you get there.
Elevator to the 2nd Floor: €8, 20
Elevator to top: €13,40
As with any attraction, vendors selling souvenir keychains, water, etc., are everywhere. There’s also a souvenir shop on the second level.
Restaurants are on the first and second levels.
Enjoy!
As I walked around Paris, the Eiffel Tower beckoned me like a lighthouse. I set out to find her just by looking out for her as her top rose above trees and buildings.
I didn’t need a map. I just kept cutting across streets that would bring me closer.
After a while, I realized I’d cover more territory by bus than on foot.
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