My Travel Seven Super Shots – Jamaica

I am taking part in Hostelbookers 7 Super Shots photo post game that has been making its way around the blogosphere.  The premise was to choose seven favorite photos fitting pre-defined categories.  Then, nominate other bloggers.  Hence, the game of tag ensues.  Huge thanks to Mary from The World is a Book who tagged me a few weeks ago.

A Photo that… takes my breath away

Without question, Trident Castle took my breath away the first time I saw it, and each time I look at the photos I took, my breath still catches in my throat. This gleaming, white structure seems to just sprout out of the lush Portland vegetation. It’s totally unexpected, totally unusual and totally unique.

Hostelbooker Seven Super Shots - Trident Castle, Portland
My Seven Super Shots – Trident Castle, Portland

A Photo that….makes me dream

Looking at this photo makes me dream of reaching not just the summit of the Blue Mountains but maybe even Mount Kilimanjaro. One of these days.

Hostelbookers Seven Super Shots
My Seven Super Shots, Blue Mountains, Portland/St. Thomas

A Photo that….makes me think

I’m used to seeing ships here but when I saw the Mariner of the Seas in Falmouth, I did a double take. Falmouth is a small town and the ship almost dwarfs it.

More than anything, though, is the striking contrast between this modern ship and the old town, which was founded in 1769 and had piped water before New York City. To the left is the court house, which was built originally around 1815. Several buildings skirting the harbor date to the 17th and 18th centuries. It made me think of the ships that used to dock in Falmouth. Back then, they brought Africans to the island as slaves, and left with sugar and rum.

My Travel Seven Super Shots
My Travel Seven Super Shots, Falmouth

A Photo that….makes me laugh or smile

My nephew, Malcolm, was visiting from London with his parents for a few weeks. My sister, a friend and I decided to take him for a swim in the Wag Water River. All the way there, Malcolm kept saying, “I’m not going into the water. I am not going into the water. I’m not going into the water.”

In case you missed it, that’s Malcolm in the water, enjoying himself, like he always swam in a river. When we were ready, he didn’t want to leave. I chuckle every time I see the photos.

My Travel Seven Super Shots
My Seven Super Shots, Wag Water River, St. Mary

A Photo that….makes my mouth water

I never tire of eating fish. My preference is red snapper, which I love fried crispy, escoveitch, or steamed, as it is here. With chunks of potato, carrots, okra and chocho (chayote), it’s a meal in itself. Sometimes, I get bammy (a flat bread made from cassava — the round thing on the left) steamed with the fish. Ahh, delicious!

My Travel Seven Super Shots
My Seven Super Shots, Little Ochie

A Photo that….tells a story

As I said, my favorite meal is one of fish or seafood, though I must admit, I rarely think of the work that goes into bringing them to my table. Believe me, it’s difficult, backbreaking and can be deadly.

I chatted with a few of these guys before they set out and I was surprised by how young they were – none was older than 25 – and how long it takes them to return — sometimes up to a week when they go far as South America. Their boats looked as if they could hardly withstand a good shower of rain. I promised myself never to haggle with a fisherman again.

My Travel Seven Super Shots
My Seven Super Shots, Little Ochie

A Photo that….I’m most proud of (aka my worthy of National Geographic shot)

This has happened a few times. I take a photo on the fly, then look at it later and realize it came out really well. That’s the case here. I’m really proud of this shot.

My Travel Seven Super Shots - Negril
My Travel Seven Super Shots – Negril

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

I’ll post the 5 bloggers I’m tagging shortly. Till then, enjoy!

Bacchanal 2012 – Jamaica Carnival

Approximately 30 minutes before Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica’s Carnival, which had as its theme, Future Shock, made its way to where I was standing near Devon House, the skies opened up. Despite the fact that it had looked ominous all morning, I had left without an umbrella or rain slick.

At first, I tried to stare it back  — how could there be rain on carnival day? But as the drops got fatter and began pelting my head and shoulders, with some insistence, I reluctantly admitted defeat — my willpower was no match for a tropical shower — and shamefacedly begged a woman nearby, who had found some thick cardboard, for a piece to cover my head. Then I waited. I didn’t know how long the rain would last, or how soon the parade would appear, but I’d been standing too long to give up and go home. Sometimes, I surprise myself at how pig headed I can be!

Unlike many other Caribbean islands, Jamaica does not have a carnival tradition. However, students from islands where carnival is an annual event who attend the local campus of the University of the West Indies, began staging their own version of carnival long before Byron Lee started it in the island. That carnival, I’m told was bigger and even made it beyond Kingston to Montego Bay. Unfortunately, the music and the revelry stopped after Lee passed away. The current event has been around for 24 years and is now the only vehicle for anyone who wants to jump carnival in Jamaica.

Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica Carnival
Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica Carnival - Putting up the barricades on Old Hope Road

After maybe 15 long minutes, the rain let up. A truck appeared and men began unloading barricades. (Roads are blocked long enough to let the parade through.) I was relieved. The party, though wet, wet, wet (instead of hot, hot, hot) was still on.

Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica Carnival
Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica Carnival - Getting ready, Old Hope Road

Then this SUV arrived and the driver, who was wearing a T-shirt that read ‘Field Crew,’ got out very official-like. He walked to the rear of the vehicle, looked at something, walked back to the front, got into the driver’s seat and drove off.

Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica Carnival
Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica Carnival

Another long 15 or so minutes passed before we heard music in the distance. Then I saw the crowd.

Maybe because of the rain, things had become a free for all. Folks in costume who were playing mass, as well as members of the public, a few people on bicycle, and street vendors, some with push carts, were all now part of the road march.

Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica Carnival
Bacchanal 2012, Jamaica Carnival

Isn’t he just so regal?

When the last float inched past me I checked my watch. Less than 30 minutes had passed. I was surprised. Surely, this couldn’t be the end? Maybe the rain sent some people home.

I felt cheated. I discarded my makeshift rain hat and decided to follow. I walked for about 10-15 minutes when I felt raindrops again. This time, I had nothing to protect me. I dropped my camera in my bag and headed towards Devon House.

I was soaked by the time I got there. More than getting wet, I was disappointed with Bacchanal 2012. It was smaller that I anticipated and looked disorganized. In fairness, that could have been because of the rain. So next year, I’ll go early and I’ll go to mass camp.

Bacchanal, Jamaica’s carnival parade, takes place the weekend following Easter.

#TPT: A Tour of Jamaica’s King’s House

I’m not sure why it’s called King’s House as no king has lived there but the official residence of the governor-general, the Queen’s representative in Jamaica, and the home of visiting royalties and heads of state, is known as King’s House.

Jamaica's King's House
Jamaica's King's House

The current King’s House is the third governor’s residence. Although Jamaica has had governors since at least 1661, there was never an official residence. They had to find their own accommodation. This changed around 1690, when the first residence was established in Port Royal. By 1762, however, a new King’s House was completed in the colonial capital, St. Jago de la Vega or Spanish Town, as it is now known.

Jamaica's King's House - The Official Entrance
Jamaica's King's House - The Official Entrance

In 1866, when Sir John Peter Grant, the governor at the time arrived, he set about to make radical and far reaching changes in the country, which was almost bankrupt. Sir John, who was quite private, lived in the governor’s residence in Spanish Town for three weeks before moving to the home he bought in the Port Royal Mountains, where the climate was more to his liking.

Jamaica's King's House - First floor reception area
Jamaica's King's House - First floor reception area

Sir John thought the capital should be in Kingston and by 1870, the government had acquired Somerset Pen, the 190-acre property that for 46 years, had been the residence of the Anglican Bishops of the Diocese of Jamaica. Sir John stayed at Bishop’s Lodge, the bishop’s residence on the property while construction of the new King’s House took place. Two years later, the capital was moved to Kingston.

Jamaica's King's House - Ballroom for official dinners and functions
Jamaica's King's House - Ballroom for official functions

Unfortunately, the house was destroyed by earthquake, and a fire in 1908 that destroyed the stables, a coach house and some of the manservants’ rooms. Some of the features of the old house were incorporated.

The current King’s House is three stories covering approximately 16,000 square feet, and includes a 60-foot indoor swimming pool, which is fed by a natural spring. The pool, which was part of the original house, was frequently used by Sir John, who had a habit of lying on a sofa or in the bath while doing his paperwork.

Jamaica's King's House - The drawing room
Jamaica's King's House - The drawing room
Jamaica's King's House - The chandelier
Jamaica's King's House - The chandelier

On the ground floor are the official entrance and reception area and a ballroom where ceremonies are held. Also on the ground floor are portraits of past governors, governors-general, kings and queens.

Jamaica's King's House - The morning room
Jamaica's King's House - The morning room

The second floor houses the drawing room, where the governor-general meets guests, including visiting heads of state. It is decorated by gold leaf hurricane globe chandeliers that were brought over from the house in Spanish Town. Also on the second floor is the morning room, where the governor-general’s wife greets her guests, has meetings, etc. It has a fine collection of silver which was owned by the British West India Regiment. Living quarters are the third floor.

Jamaica's King's House - Back entrance to carriage way
Jamaica's King's House - Back entrance and carriage way

An exceptional feature of King’s House is the mile-long driveway, which was known previously as Governor’s Road. It is now called Palm Tree Avenue. Several trees, some planted by visiting dignitaries, can be found on the property: a cotton tree which was imported from South Africa in 2009, mahoe and banyan trees from India, and flowers, ferns and plants from all over the world.

The lush grounds are the venue for the annual ceremony on National Heroes Day when the governor-general presents honors and awards.

Jamaica's King's House - The dining room, formerly Bishop's Lodge
Jamaica's King's House - The dining room, formerly Bishop's Lodge

Interestingly enough, Bishop’s Lodge, which has been around since the 1800s, has never been destroyed.

Jamaica's King's House - The key to Bishop's Lodge
Jamaica's King's House - The key to Bishop's Lodge

When you arrive at King’s House, it’s hard not to miss several nests on the portico. Those belong to swallows, that are now dubbed King’s House Swallow, that seemed to have followed the governor from Spanish Town to Kingston.

Jamaica's King's House - The secretariat
Jamaica's King's House - The secretariat

During his time in office, Governor-General Sir Howard Cooke (1991-2006) started a vegetable garden, which still provides vegetables and fresh fruits to hospitals in Kingston.

King’s House in the Movies

King’s House was a shooting location for the 1962 James Bond film, Dr. No. In the movie, however, Bond calls it Government House.

How to Schedule a Tour

Guided tours of King’s House are available by appointment from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday to Friday. Apply in writing to:

The Office of the Governor-General
King’s House
Hope Road
Kingston 6

Or email kingshouse@kingshouse.gov.jm

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

Weekly Photo Challenge: Two Subjects

It was a bit harder to find photos that described the subject of this week’s Photo Challenge by WordPress. Would love to hear what you think about my choice.

Weekly Photo Challenge: Two Subjects
Weekly Photo Challenge: Two Subjects

This might seem like an unlikely pairing – elephants and cape buffalo – but these two of the Big Five animals – the rhino, leopard and lion are the others — didn’t seem to mind sharing the same watering hole.

 

 

Travel Photo Thursday: Jamaica’s Blue Mountain Coffee

Famous internationally since the 18th century, Jamaica’s Blue Mountain Coffee, which gets its name from the location where it is grown, is one of the most expensive coffees in the world. The rich soil and cool climate of the mountain, make it the ideal location for coffee growing. It is strictly regulated.

Jamaica's Blue Mountain
Jamaica's Blue Mountain

Only coffees grown in the higher elevations — between 3,000-5,500 feet — can bear the Blue Mountain label. Between 1,500-3,000 feet, it is known as Jamaica High Mountain, and below 1,500 feet, Jamaica Low Mountain or Supreme.

Jamaica's Blue Mountain coffee
Jamaica's Blue Mountain coffee

After I took this photo, I heard voices and looked in the direction where the sound was coming from. There were at least two people, each wearing floppy hats with bags strapped around their waists. As they released the berries from the trees, they dropped them into their bags. I watched for a few minutes, fascinated at how adroitly they navigated the side of the mountain without falling. Did I say how steep the mountain is? At this point, we’re about 4,000 feet. It’s almost a vertical drop.

Jamaica's Blue Mountain coffee
Jamaica's Blue Mountain coffee

Following handpicking, the berries are then floated in water to remove those that are underdeveloped or have been damaged by insects. They are inspected then washed again, to remove the sugary substance on the outer section of the beans, and dried. Following the drying process, the beans are bagged and warehoused for at least 10 weeks.

Jamaica's Blue Mountain coffee beans
Jamaica's Blue Mountain coffee

They are then hulled to reveal the bean which are polished and sorted according to size. They are also tested for taste, body and color. The last step is an inspection by hand to check each bean for defects.

1737, Jamaica exported over 83,000 pounds of coffee.

Approximately 7,000 farmers cultivate coffee in Blue Mountains, about 40% of them are women.

Japan was the largest importer of Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee however, since the economic downturn, they no longer take the bulk of the crop, approximately 80%.

Average price of Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee:

In the US – $48

In Japan – $62

Average payment to a farmer for a 60-pound box of berries: J$3,000 or about US$35.

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

New Jamaican Airline Set to Launch

FlyJamaica Airlines, a new Jamaican airline, is set to launch as soon as next month. According to a report in the local news on March 21st, the new airline’s principals are Guyanese but the majority owners are Jamaicans.

FlyJamaica will operate between Kingston, Georgetown, the Guyanese capital, New York’s JFK and Toronto.

FlyJamaica Airlines, image from the Internet
FlyJamaica Airlines, image from the Internet

The announcement of this new airline comes days after REDjet, the Caribbean’s first budget airline, signaled that it was halting service on all routes. FlyJamaica Airlines is expected to compete with Caribbean Airlines on its Jamaican and Guyanese routes.

Only time will tell whether FlyJamaica Airlines will achieve profitability and fill the void left by the loss of the national carrier, Air Jamaica.

Hiking Jamaica’s Blue Mountain

Jamaica’s Blue Mountain range, which spreads northeast across the island from the parish of St. Andrew to St. Thomas, Portland and St. Mary, is better known for the world-class coffee it produces than its hiking trails. However, there are 12 trails of varying lengths and levels of difficulty though not all of them go to the top.

I’m not a hiker and prior to a few days ago, the only way I’d been up a mountain was by car. But the memory of a spectacular Blue Mountain sunrise that I’d seen a few years ago on an episode of Globe Trekker, and the thought of viewing the island from its highest point (7,402 feet), had me seek out a guide to help me make the climb.

The trail we decided on would take us a distance of 6 miles, rising from approximately 4,000 feet (the area around Penlyne Castle/Whitfield Hall) to 7,402 feet, and is estimated to take 4 hours up, 3 down. We planned a 2:00 a.m. departure so that we would get to the peak by sunrise.

Blue Mountain trail
Hiking the Blue Mountain

Except for lights in the direction of Kingston, the trail is pitch black at that time so we equipped ourselves with flashlights; and to provide fuel for the hike, energy bars and water. Since the temperature on the mountain can be up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit lower than in Kingston, from where I left, I dressed warmly in sweat pants, a long sleeved running shirt made of material that wicks away moisture, two t-shirts, woolen socks and hiking shoes.

I began to feel the effects of the mountain air as soon as we set out. My breathing felt shallow and for a second, I wondered if that would derail me before I even began. It did slow me at first, but thankfully, I adjusted.

Hiking Jamaica's Blue Mountain
Canopy over the trail

For the first 20 minutes or so, the trail seemed pretty easy. Then we reached Jacob’s Ladder, a series of switchbacks that take you up the one of the series of mountains that make up the range. I’m not sure how long it took as I stopped often to catch my breath or take a sip of water. This was the most challenging part of the hike.

After clearing Jacob’s Ladder, we arrived at Portland Gap, a part of the trail which lies between Mossman’s Peak (6,653 ft/2,028 m) and the Blue Mountain Peak (7,402 ft/2,246 m). Looking at it from the ground the day after, it appears almost flat.  A ranger’s station, considered the halfway point of the climb, is also located in a lush clearing in the Gap.

Facilities for camping are also located there, however, my guide said they aren’t well maintained. Here is also where hikers are supposed to check in and pay a user fee (about US$1) but there was no one there to collect it at that hour. We refilled our water bottles and got back on the trail. For anyone considering this particular trail, this is the only place to get water.

As we were leaving, I noticed that the skies were no longer dark. When I asked, Ipal said we had another 3 1/2 miles to the peak! At the rate we were going, I knew we wouldn’t make it before the sun rose even if we hurried but I decided to keep going.

Sunrise caught us just as we arrived at the second lookout point, about two hour’s walk from the peak. I was very disappointed. I hate to give up but my goal was to see the sun rise on the Blue Mountain. That I had done. I promised myself to return another time, stronger and fitter, so I could reach the top in time to greet the sun.

Hiking Jamaica's Blue Mountain
Blue Mountain sunrise
View of Jamaica's Blue Mountain in the morning sunrise
Sunrise on the mountain

As the sun illuminated the trail before us on the return, I was surprised by what I had missed in the dark. Ferns of all varieties were everywhere. Trees towered above us, sometimes forming a canopy that almost blocked out the light. Moss covered rocks along the trail and hung from branches and trees, giving them an ethereal feel. Everywhere was lush and green, a wall of mountains on one side.

The Blue Mountain range is home to about 200 species of birds and the swallowtail butterfly, the second largest in the world. I didn’t get to see him but I heard and saw the hummingbird and some of the 500 species of flowering plants, half of which are endemic to Jamaica.

Hiking Jamaica's Blue Mountain
Slowly rising sun

What to Wear

Comfortable clothes – sweatshirts, pants, woolen socks, waterproof shoes. A good part of the trail is wet — the Blue Mountain range gets between 2-300 inches or rain annually — parts are rocky, and in some places, it is wide enough for just one person.

Carry a small backpack with water and snacks – energy bars and potassium-rich foods like bananas, chocolate, dried fruits and water.

A flashlight is a must, whether you’re going for a sunrise or sunset hike.

If you need one, take a walking stick. I found one useful especially on the return.

Where to Stay: There are several guest houses and hostels in the Penlyne Castle/Whitfield Hall area. I stayed at Jah B’s place (876) 377-5206. There’s also Whitfield Hall and Wildflower Lodge within walking distance.

Best time to go: Between December and April, the dry season.

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

#TPT Seaford Town, Connecting Jamaica to Germany

Seaford Town is probably the best known of the German settlements in Jamaica. Nestled in the Montpelier Mountains on western end of the island, Seaford Town is a small community that, in 1835, welcomed approximately 300 German nationals.

Sacred Heart Church, Seaford Town
Sacred Heart Church, Seaford Town

There are at least two versions of the story of how they came. By one account, the planters, who were outnumbered by the slaves, feared for their own safety following the 1831 Christmas Rebellion. The presence of armed men, they felt, would deter future revolts so they looked for men who would have been trained and would have had weapons. Since German men were required to serve in the military and were equipped with rifles, they became the logical choice.

Another account is that the Jamaican Assembly appointed a Prussian, William Lemonius, to recruit “bountied” European immigrants to establish settlements in the island’s interior. Their presence, it was felt, would encourage the ex-slaves (slavery was abolished in 1834) to work harder. They were promised housing and a salary, which would be paid weekly until their crops began to grow. They would also be given title to their lots.

Sacred Heart Church, Seaford Town
Sacred Heart Church, Seaford Town

Upon arrival from Bremen in December, 1835, they had to build their own homes, were expected to work long hours and exist on very meager rations cornmeal, flour, lard, beef and saltfish. Within a few years after they arrived, several died. In time, they learned how to grow bananas, ginger, cocoa, cassava and coffee.

Descendants of those Germans who came to Jamaica in the 19th century and earlier can be found in St. Ann, St. Mary and Trelawny but of all the communities, Seaford Town has the strongest retentions. Other evidence of the German connection can be found in place names such as Manhertz Gap, Bremen Valley, Hessen Castle, Mount Holstein and Charlottenburg, among others.

Sacred Heart Church, Seaford Town
Sacred Heart Church, Seaford Town

Seaford Town is located about 25 miles from Montego Bay. A small museum containing artifacts, photographs and other documents can be found there as well as the Roman Catholic church, the first church built in Seaford Town. Entrance Fee: J$500, roughly US$6.00.

This is my submission to this week’s Budget Travelers Sandbox Travel Photo Thursday series. Be sure to check out other photo and story entries on their website.

Grab Your Water Shoes and Let’s Climb Dunn’s River Falls!

When I climbed Dunn’s River Falls several years ago, water shoes were optional. Back then, climbers locked hands with each other, formed a human chain and scrambled up the falls, one step at a time.

Climbing Dunn's River Falls
Climbing Dunn's River Falls

Now guides lead daisy-chained groups of climbers and water shoes are strongly recommended. But that hasn’t dampened the fun. The Falls are easily navigated. Missing your footing and falling into one of the many plunge pools on the terraced steps or having water cascade over your body, especially on a hot day, is part of the fun.

Climbing Dunn's River Falls
Climbing Dunn's River Falls

The guides cheer you on, point out best places to walk, take your photo, and even hold your glasses or any item you don’t want to have fall into the water. The climb takes approximately 90 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the group you’re with.

Climbing Dunn's River Falls
Climbing Dunn's River Falls

Called Las Chorreras by the Spanish, Dunn’s River Falls is located in Ocho Rios, St. Ann. From the beach below, where it empties out into the Caribbean Sea, to the top, is approximately 600 feet.

Dunn’s River Falls was featured in Dr. No. It was the location where Ursula Andress emerged from the sea.

Climbing Dunn's River Falls
Climbing Dunn's River Falls

Hours: Daily from 8:30 – 4:00 p.m., from 7:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. on cruise ships days.

Cost: US$20 (Adults), US$12 (Children); water shoe rental is extra.

What to wear: Bathing suits, shorts, t-shirts, etc., anything that won’t sag or separate when you’re in the water and water shoes.

Guides have cameras and will gladly take your photo for a fee, so leave your camera with a friend or at the hotel. If you decide not to go into the water, you can watch the climb from the look out area.

One of the guides I spoke with said the best time to visit is right after it opens as the water is very clear and you have a better view of the rocks below. I thought it was still clear when we went – around midday – but he said it was even clearer early in the day.

After you’ve climbed the falls, you can relax in the park, take a swim or a stroll of the gardens. And if you’re looking for a place to tie the knot, Dunn’s River Falls is the perfect spot.